From: "Scott Somers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Here's the problem. > left the house on Monday to go for a spin. About 4 miles from the house, > running fine, then quit. A "pop" then all, I mean all, electrical went > away. While waiting for the flatbed, I checked the battery ( a 2 month old > Optima) and it registered 12.53. Before the flatbed got there, I tried > again to start it and it fired right up, ran for 15 seconds and stopped - > again no electric to anywhere. Full power at the battery but none anywhere > else. Actually a little, enough to barely power the inside lights for just > a second and then dead. > > Walked out this morning and the batter registered 12.4 but it fired right > up. I turned it off and came in to the office. > > Is there a thermal electrical thang somewhere in Chevelles. Obviously I > cannot trust going anywhere in it until it is found and fixed. Reliability > is way high up on my list of happys.
Two things that have caused problems for me in my 64's were: 1) Corroded battery cable terminals where wire enters connector. Looks ok, but no current until you jiggle wire and re-make connection. Might see signs of arcing. 2) The bulkhead connector. The heavy red wire from horn relay terminal goes through same size little terminal as the other wires. (not their best piece of work) If this is the problem it's probably burnt from arcing and needs replaced. I spliced in another section of wire from a scrap harness. (The terminals are released by sliding a small piece of metal in to release tab.) #1 probably shows up as a "no-start". Car would probably run w/o battery if alternator is putting out. #2 will stop car dead. Also if someone wired in an aftermarket amp meter some(all?) of these were wired in series with wire from battery to horn relay so all current passing through this wire had to go through ampmeter and back to horn relay. More wire and connectors to fail. The factory setup and maybe some aftermarket meters were set up differently. Pete Geurds Douglassville, PA
