The 35-1 will have a "crack" if the keel bolts need tightening, AKA the C&C Smile, but AFAIK the keel stub itself stays on the hull with no cracks. BTW - while the 35 is a lightly built boat and a bit flexible, ours has taken a pounding and then some in 20 foot breaking seas and hung in there.
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I www.dellabarba.com<http://www.dellabarba.com> www.cryc.org From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 8:59 AM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks The cause of the cracks was wet core just outboard / above the solid glass at the turn of the bilge (right by the mast step). There was a void between the mast step assembly (glass) and the hull proper that allowed water to sit for a while (29 years?) against the inner laminate... I now have full confidence in the hull integrity (having replaced most of it over the last two years), but am many dollars lighter. The temptation of a new boat is growing. Tim Mojito 1984 C&C 35-3 Branford, CT On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 at 8:50 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com<mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>> wrote: Tim, My boat is a lot older than yours but if it's any indication, their layup schedules weren't very good. I've re-tabbed most of the bulkhead/hull joints in Touche's forward section. A few were detached or broken but most were just bad practice. When I had the boat hauled about 5 years ago for a barrier coat, I could see cosmetic cracks in the matte once the gelcoat was removed from the underbody. These cracks aligned with the bulkheads. The bulkhead tabs had no fillets. They were all 90 degree joints. This created stress points at the joints which manifested themselves as the cosmetic cracks on the outside of the hull. I have been re-tabbing all the bulkheads with filleted joints. I ground out the old tabbing, created fillets and re-tabbed with 4 inch biaxial tape. To create the fillets, I put thickened epoxy in the joint and smoothed it with the back of a plastic spoon. This creates a nice radius for the fillet. The filleted joints spread the load. This is particularly important in the forward section of the boat as that's where the boat pounds into waves. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ________________________________ From: Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com<mailto:timg...@gmail.com>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2012 4:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks There is some tabbing in the bilge sump between floors and hull that has become detached. I'll have that ground off and reattached and will add glass on the outside and fair. Does anyone have access to any of the original layup schedules in that area? I have copies of all the drawings that were available, but none were that specific on construction methods. Thanks, Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 1984 Branford, CT On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com<mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>> wrote: Hi Tim I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached to the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it is not. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 Tim Goodyear wrote: Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from those who have re-habbed their keels on this model... I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in two areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline crack on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast step is internally). Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with major keel surgery? Rear of keel I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards have had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but still a tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just aft of the rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area dry). Water would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted back a little on the stands. I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7 years (since I bought Mojito). Mast Step area This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have been hairline cracks in the antifouling before. The mast is stepped and I can't access that area through the mast step, which appears sound. Thanks, Tim Mojito 1984 C&C 35-3 Branford, CT _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com<http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com<http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
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