Peter:  you should be able to see where the lead/fibreglass join is on the 
outside. If you have a sump at all, and I'm sure you do, your drill should 
emerge at or just above the juncture. If you don't like the ⅛" hole, plug it. 
No big deal. 

Rich

> On Nov 5, 2013, at 15:55, "Petar Horvatic" <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Rich,
> your explanation is great, it makes perfect sense.  So I got the drainplug, 
> and I went over there last weekend to look at the possible location.   I 
> don’t have a lot of confidence that if I drill horizontally sideways, from 
> the lowest point in the bildge, (what I believe you describe as the 90 deg 
> angle), I will actually end up perpendicular to the bottom surface on the 
> outside.   I don’t know how deep LF38 bildges are but on 38MkII, bildge is 
> very shallow.  If I end up higher then intended it could be very bad as the 
> bottom profile quickly turns from vertical to horizontal.  My intuition 
> suggests that I might need to drill at like 30 or 45 deg angle from 
> horizontal in order to end up perpendicular to the bottom surface on the 
> outside.   Maybe I just need to overcome my fear, but I wish there is a way 
> to find out what lowest point in the bildge projects to on the outer side of 
> the hull without actually drilling a pilot hole.   Maybe a pic of an actual 
> 38MkII , and not a landfall or ideally a cross-section drawing of the 
> keel-hull join showing hull thickness would indicate exactly how to drill. 
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
> Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII
>  
> Peter:  Using a 90 deg. angle drill, I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole out from the 
> interior of the boat at the intersection of the bilge wall and floor at the 
> lowest point in the bilge. 
>  
> I then used a Forstner bit the same diameter as the outside of the flange of 
> the drain casting to create a recessed hole in the hull exterior the depth of 
> the thickness of the flange plus a bit for caulking. 
>  
> Once the outer hole was drilled, I drilled the hole for the neck of the drain 
> casting deep enough to allow the casting to sit flush with the hull. I then 
> used a 1/2" drill at an up angle into the bilge floor to create the water 
> passage from the bilge floor into the casting. Three 1 1/4" #10 flat head 
> self tapping screws and some 5200 hold and seal the casting in place. I note 
> that the flange straddles the hull/keel joint with the majority of the 
> fitting and two of the three screws in the hull. The third screw is in the 
> lead. No problems to date. That includes dropping and replacing the keel 
> during my recent post grounding repair. 
>  
> There are nylon or bronze plugs with hex sockets available if the notion of 
> drag caused by the protruding square bolt head impeding perfect water flow 
> bothers the racing mentality at all. Personally, I can't tell the 
> difference:). One could also cut the bolt head off the threaded portion and 
> saw a kerf for a large screwdriver in the end of the threaded bit. 
>  
> That little gadget is one of the best additions to the boat as it ensures the 
> bilge dries out completely every haul out and stays that way. I leave a large 
> note to myself to replace the plug in the spring:)
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo
> 1981 LF 38
> Halifax. NS
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:16, "Petar Horvatic" <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain plug.
> Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have 
> something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in the 
> bildge to allow water to drain.
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
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