Glad to be of service. Ken H.
On 11 November 2013 14:05, Petar Horvatic <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote: > So rare earth magnet taken from an old hard-drive worked very well. I > actually took few of them and let them stick to each other. That > intensified the magnetic field. I placed them on the inside in the bildge > and used a compass to find the location on the outside. Compass pointed > the left/right location very well. Up/down was hard to estimate as the > compass housing is pretty flat. Needle gets stuck if you rotate the > compass upright. However if you keep compass horizontal, and bare down on > the needle, you can see the slight movement down and up as the compass is > raised up/down respectively. That indicated the spot very accurately. > Then I used small piece of another magnet and confirmed the location. It > was the only spot where the magnet held in place on the outside of the > hull. Spot looks good, it’s not quite at a vertical keel spot, but its > only few degrees from vertical. 2” flange will fit very nicely there. > > Thanks guys, awesome suggestion! > > Petar > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich > Knowles > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 05, 2013 4:27 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII, > > > > Just thinking: if you fix a magnet on the inside, a small compass or > magnetic stud finder would pinpoint it from the outside of the hull. > > Rich > > > On Nov 5, 2013, at 17:16, "Petar Horvatic" <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I thinks it’s worth a try. If you’re a junk collector then any of your > old Hard Drives will have rare earth magnets in them. > > > > Petar > > > > *From:* CnC-List > [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] > *On Behalf Of *Rich Knowles > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 05, 2013 3:53 PM > *To:* kenhea...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII, > > > > Ken, you are removing all the mystery and potential for disaster from the > exercise:). The glass is pretty thick there, but it's worth a try. > > Rich > > > On Nov 5, 2013, at 16:28, Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com> wrote: > > How about two small powerful magnets, one on the inside taped in place and > one on the outside? The one on the outside will locate the one on the > inside pretty easily. Move it around until you find the sweet spot. > > > > Look for Rare-Earth Circular Magnets like these: > http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42363,42348&p=32065 > > > > Ken H. > > > > On 5 November 2013 16:04, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: > > Peter: you should be able to see where the lead/fibreglass join is on the > outside. If you have a sump at all, and I'm sure you do, your drill should > emerge at or just above the juncture. If you don't like the ⅛" hole, plug > it. No big deal. > > Rich > > > On Nov 5, 2013, at 15:55, "Petar Horvatic" <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Rich, > > your explanation is great, it makes perfect sense. So I got the > drainplug, and I went over there last weekend to look at the possible > location. I don’t have a lot of confidence that if I drill horizontally > sideways, from the lowest point in the bildge, (what I believe you describe > as the 90 deg angle), I will actually end up perpendicular to the bottom > surface on the outside. I don’t know how deep LF38 bildges are but on > 38MkII, bildge is very shallow. If I end up higher then intended it could > be very bad as the bottom profile quickly turns from vertical to > horizontal. My intuition suggests that I might need to drill at like 30 or > 45 deg angle from horizontal in order to end up perpendicular to the bottom > surface on the outside. Maybe I just need to overcome my fear, but I wish > there is a way to find out what lowest point in the bildge projects to on > the outer side of the hull without actually drilling a pilot hole. Maybe > a pic of an actual 38MkII , and not a landfall or ideally a cross-section > drawing of the keel-hull join showing hull thickness would indicate exactly > how to drill. > > > > Petar Horvatic > > Sundowner > > 76 C&C 38MkII > > Newport, RI > > > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List > [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] > *On Behalf Of *Rich Knowles > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:06 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII > > > > Peter: Using a 90 deg. angle drill, I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole out from > the interior of the boat at the intersection of the bilge wall and floor at > the lowest point in the bilge. > > > > I then used a Forstner bit the same diameter as the outside of the flange > of the drain casting to create a recessed hole in the hull exterior the > depth of the thickness of the flange plus a bit for caulking. > > > > Once the outer hole was drilled, I drilled the hole for the neck of the > drain casting deep enough to allow the casting to sit flush with the hull. > I then used a 1/2" drill at an up angle into the bilge floor to create the > water passage from the bilge floor into the casting. Three 1 1/4" #10 flat > head self tapping screws and some 5200 hold and seal the casting in place. > I note that the flange straddles the hull/keel joint with the majority of > the fitting and two of the three screws in the hull. The third screw is in > the lead. No problems to date. That includes dropping and replacing the > keel during my recent post grounding repair. > > > > There are nylon or bronze plugs with hex sockets available if the notion > of drag caused by the protruding square bolt head impeding perfect water > flow bothers the racing mentality at all. Personally, I can't tell the > difference:). One could also cut the bolt head off the threaded portion and > saw a kerf for a large screwdriver in the end of the threaded bit. > > > > That little gadget is one of the best additions to the boat as it ensures > the bilge dries out completely every haul out and stays that way. I leave a > large note to myself to replace the plug in the spring:) > > Rich Knowles > > Indigo > > 1981 LF 38 > > Halifax. NS > > > On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:16, "Petar Horvatic" <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain > plug. > > Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have > something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in > the bildge to allow water to drain. > > > > Petar Horvatic > > Sundowner > > 76 C&C 38MkII > > Newport, RI > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
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