Just a reminder before we all send Ed off to but a moisture meter and dismount the rudder to take it home to dry out.
The rudder is a transom hung one on a 24, and probably made like the rudder on a comparable vintage 25. Which means it is hollow below the waterline and has a hole at the top and bottom so it can fill with water for neutral buoyancy and drain when the boat is hauled. Water intrusion isn't likely to be a problem with this design. Damage to the rudder is more likely from an owner letting it slam over against the stops when backing (over the years I've seen probably 6 or 8 transom hung rudders with cracks or damaged push/pull cable steering gear from this) or from a grounding that damages the fiberglass skins. Rick Brass 25 mk1 la Belle Aurora Owned her for 20 years this month Sent from my iPad > On Jun 6, 2014, at 9:31, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > The pinless moisture meters can be pricey ($~250). Check with a local > surveyor, they usually have meters. See if they'll inspect just the rudder. > I wouldn't drill holes before I was absolutely sure there was water in there. > > There were little or no indications of water in mine but when the fiberglass > guy removed one side of the fiberglass shell, he was able to pour water out. > The foam was completely saturated which prevented any outward sloshing sound. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > >> On Jun 6, 2014 8:47 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> I don’t remember. But I did not use any special (i.e. especially long drill >> bits). And I did not drill more than probably 1/8 diameter. I am guessing >> here, but I would imagine an inch (?). >> >> Marek >> >> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List >> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:50 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> I’ll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat’s still on the >> hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on. >> I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony vinyl >> decal of a bunny, very silly. >> Ed >> >> >> >> From: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> >> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400 >> To: Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little >> hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk >> (silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do >> it with some chewing gum. >> >> The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do >> the inspection when the boat is in the water. >> >> Marek >> >> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM >> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in >> the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder >> snapped, it’s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the >> drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the >> mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used >> a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an >> old lignomat pin type. >> Ed >> >> “In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line - >> the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I >> got the sails down. A replacement was quoted at $2900. The construction >> was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks. I am looking for >> advice on rebuilding it. Would marine grade plywood be stronger? I >> thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched >> together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats. Any suggestions?” >> >> >> From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com> >> Reply-To: <kenhea...@gmail.com> >> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300 >> To: Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> No gouging. You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this: >> >> http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mastercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm >> >> Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm >> >> You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to >> compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable. >> >> I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but >> I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web >> inside welded to the rudder shaft. >> >> Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder, >> using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see >> if water comes out. If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't >> have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done >> through freezing. If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about >> the condition of the internal structure. Plug the hole whit epoxy before >> you launch the boat. Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the >> water can't freeze in there. >> >> Ken H. >> >> >> On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in >> a row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole >> through the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting? >> Ed >> >> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >> >> Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My >> 27 has drain plugs I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter.. >> >> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should >> look into mine. >> It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a >> crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder, >> but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on >> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list. :-) >> Thanks, >> Ed >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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