Thanks Rick and Marek, I¹ll know more tomorrow when I play with it. Ed
From: Rick Taillieu <rtaill...@eastlink.ca> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 16:00:07 -0300 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question Ed, If the 24¹s rudder is made like the 25¹s, it will be 2 fibreglass halves with plywood bonded in from the top to about 2² below the bottom gudgeon. >From there on to the bottom it¹s hollow and is meant to fill up with water. There should be two holes that go into the hollow part, one where the front edge turns 90 deg fwd to form the counterbalance and one in the middle of the bottom. It is very important not to let these holes plug up, they are there to drain the hollow cavity when you haul out the boat. Is the ³crack² at the top of your rudder along the centreline where the two halves join together? If so I wouldn¹t worry too much about it, it probably just the fairing filler chipping out. Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 C&C 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 08:47:07 -0400 To: Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question I don¹t remember. But I did not use any special (i.e. especially long drill bits). And I did not drill more than probably 1/8 diameter. I am guessing here, but I would imagine an inch (?). Marek From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question I¹ll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat¹s still on the hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on. I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony vinyl decal of a bunny, very silly. Ed From: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400 To: Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk (silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do it with some chewing gum. The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do the inspection when the boat is in the water. Marek From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an old lignomat pin type. Ed ³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line - the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I got the sails down. A replacement was quoted at $2900. The construction was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks. I am looking for advice on rebuilding it. Would marine grade plywood be stronger? I thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats. Any suggestions?² From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com> Reply-To: <kenhea...@gmail.com> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300 To: Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question No gouging. You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this: http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable. I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web inside welded to the rudder shaft. Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder, using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see if water comes out. If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done through freezing. If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about the condition of the internal structure. Plug the hole whit epoxy before you launch the boat. Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the water can't freeze in there. Ken H. On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a > row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole > through the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting? > Ed > > On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > >> Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. >> My 27 has drain plugs I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter.. >> >> >> >> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should >> look into mine. >> It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a >> crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder, >> but I can¹t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on >> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list. :-) >> Thanks, >> Ed
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