Maybe, but the 80s was the infancy of finite element design - which one
would want to use to properly evaluate the stiffening effects of rigid
windows. Given that using computers for hull layout was new I really
doubt that this is an engineered in property. Maybe Rob can comment on
that?
As a mechanical engineer I can say I've replaced my windows using Sika,
and am happy with that decision.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-02-12 5:17 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
Engineers know stuff!
sam :-)
*From: *dwight veinot via CnC-List
*Sent: *Thursday, February 12, 2015 12:15 PM
*To: *Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Reply To: *dwight veinot
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
Rick
Is it really true that the designers at C&C expected glued on acryllic
ports to stiffen the whole boat
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>
On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I
consider to be less stylish but much more practical, so I'm
basically just an interested onlooker to this discussion. But it
seems to me a point made several years ago in a similar thread has
been lost here.
The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and
helped to stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.
Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better
part of 30 years on our old boats. And the comments about damaging
gel oat when removing old portlights speaks to its tenacity as an
adhesive.
Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and
sealers. (And also a PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using
the primer.) I used Sika 295 on my rebuilt hatches, and it is
great for car windshields (which are bedded in rubber so the
window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains
flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've
gotten the impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to
leaks in a few years, and polycarbonate portlights held in by
screws tend to get cracks at the stress points.
As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight
solutions and I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not
stylish aluminum frames. I just wanted to remind the group about
why the frameless portlights were glued in by C&C in the first place.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last
Spring. We used 3M fuselage tape - and although the prep was a
lot of work, we are very pleased with the end result.
All the best,
Edd
-------------------------------
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com <http://www.StarshipSailing.com>
-------------------------------
914.332.4400 <tel:914.332.4400> | Office
914.774.9767 <tel:914.774.9767> | Mobile
-------------------------------
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would
definitely need the screws/bolts.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI :^(
On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were
attached by screws? What about bolts all the way through to
some nice wood trim that would "clamp" the cabin top sides
between the windows and interior trim?
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