Patrick,
I replaced the thru-hull for my knot meter this year. The hull is solid glass in that area, although I still gave it a coating of West epoxy to be extra sure. I also coated the plywood backing plate with epoxy. It wasn’t deteriorated, but it will last longer this way. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” C&C 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Stus-List Are original LF38 thru hulls in contact with coring? My first haul out is coming up in 3 weeks, just for a few days to do some small tasks like unsticking a seized seacock and maybe installing a new speed transducer (old Datamarine one is somewhat broken). I've read Wally's site cover to cover and know he redid his thru hulls reaming out some core and filling with epoxy (and even glassing over). But were all model years constructed without that done or did later C&Cs start sealing their thru hulls better? It's surprising to me that they wouldn't have protected the core out of the factory. Do I need to inspect all thru hulls or only prior-owner installed ones? I might postpone this till the fall since it'll be a big job, just wondering if it's worth pulling one now (even that I don't expect to be easy). If all cored C&Cs were installed with coring abutting the thruhull, I'm surprised it doesn't sound like everyone has redone them (it looks like only 2 or 3 people have asked about it on the list - although more may have done it). Or is the concern overdone? From the standpoint of "don't mess with it if it ain't broke" maybe it's better to just do nothing. Except that the plywood backing plates are wet/decayed, so eventually I'll need to at least do something with those (which may or may not involve replacing the seacock and thruhull too). -Patrick 1984 LF38 "Violet Hour" Seattle, WA
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