David, My old Universal M-35 was the same way - could not start if I pressed the starter while still holding the glow plug. I'd have to let go of the glow plug and then press start.
I hooked up a multimeter and found that the glow plugs use up a lot of juice. At the ignition stage, I read 12.6 volts. When I pressed the glow plug for 20 seconds, it would drop to 11.5. At 11.5, the start button would not work. As soon as I let go of the glow plug button, voltage clocked up to 12.6 again and the starter button would crank. All the best, Edd ------------------------------- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com ------------------------------- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile ------------------------------- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize > On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 12:15 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will > not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore > power. The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and > then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button. When I > do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button > and push the start button the engine starts fine. My father (retired > electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds > good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found > two interesting things: > > 1. The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function. We then > tested power at the engine. There is a heavy red cable coming from the > battery to the starter measured 12V. The red-yellow wire from the start > button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram > in the manual does not show a solenoid). We only measured 8 volts at the > solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else. So that > probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at > the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid. I will > pull the starter next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an > alternative suggestion. > > 2. The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from > the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the > other lead to the start button. The manual shows that wire running from the > downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only > be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes). > If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only > the start button. Nevertheless, it does start the engine. Tracing the > wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the > glow plug switch, so that either button will work independently as both are > always powered. What I don’t understand is why you would wire it the other > way (as the manual shows) since that would remove the ability to start the > engine without the glow plugs (as in an already warm engine). I don’t know > if the PO or some yard mechanic made that change or if it is indicated wrong > in the manual, so I am curious how other Universal panels are wired. The way > it is actually wired makes more sense to me than what is in the manual unless > I am missing something. > > Thanks- Dave > > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <pastedGraphic.tiff> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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