I don't have a universal or any experience with one but it sounds to me
like the glow plugs are drawing down the starting voltage.  I would suggest
installing a solenoid for the glow plugs in addition to a solenoid for the
starter.  The 2 articles below talk about poorly wired universal panels and
make similar suggestions.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solder_trouble_shooting

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 11, 2015 8:50 AM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched
> terminal of the glow plug button.  You are supposed to to have to push the
> glow plug switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the glow
> plug switch also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil pressure
> builds up, and silences the low oil pressure alarm.  Once the oil pressure
> rises, its switch powers the fuel pump.
>
> I put an M30B in our club launch and it has the same setup.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
> On 8/10/2015 11:15 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will
> not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into
> shore power.  The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30
> seconds and then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start
> button.  When I do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the
> glow plug button and push the start button the engine starts fine.  My
> father (retired electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in
> this case but sounds good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem
> this weekend and found two interesting things:
>
> 1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We
> then tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from
> the battery to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the
> start button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring
> diagram in the manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts
> at the solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.
> So that probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter
> won’t work at the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the
> solenoid.  I will pull the starter next winter and have someone test it
> unless someone has an alternative suggestion.
>
> 2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power
> from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from
> the other lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running
> from the downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button
> should only be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual
> describes).  If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the
> engine with only the start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the
> engine.  Tracing the wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came
> from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that either button will work
> independently as both are always powered.  What I don’t understand is why
> you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would
> remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in an
> already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made
> that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how
> other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is actually wired makes more
> sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am missing something.
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
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