I replaced all 4 of mine 2 winters ago with PYI. They are captured so even if/when the rubber breaks down or delaminates the mount will still hold the engine. Yanmar even recognizes the possibility of a torn engine mount and recommends installing a heavy gauge "twist tie" to prevent the engine from coming loose. On one boat we looked at, the dripless shaft seal bellows were weak but worked while idle or forward at low RPM. At high RPM the engine was able to thrust the engine forward enough on the weakened stock yanmar mounts to allow the shaft seal to spray. The PYI capturing prevents excess engine movement if the rubber breaks down and are stainless frames to prevent rust. The top creates a shroud so that any fuel or oil is directed away from the rubber to help prevent the rubber from breaking down too. I think they were a little cheaper too.
If you would like I have a brand new, never installed, yanmar mount I would be willing to sell. The install on mine was only made possible by removing the mounting brackets from the engine. I did them one at a time so the engine was always supported on three corners. I would use a sharpie to trace the original mounts just to give you a guide on the new ones. The suggestion made to me was to use a deflated basketball to jack the engine. I had already finished the job before acquiring a basketball so I never tried it out but it would have made the job easier. My boat came with Vetus engine mounts. I think they were built with a hydraulic dampening fluid inside. When i got the boat they were oozing. You can see pictures of the new ones installed and the old ones removed at the following link. https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit It was my first alignment and took some though with regard to how to get the engine to move properly. The basketball would have probably been helpful. Finding the correct wrench combination to reach all the places was a challenge. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F On Aug 11, 2015 11:30 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of > the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. > > I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's > the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two > (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical > inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were > delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If > this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. > > I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online > reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - > a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair > amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission > premature wear. > > > Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be > interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even > though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you > mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm > ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm > expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts > look a bit rusted on. > > I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would > place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and > the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack > in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine > until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at > that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could > upload. > > Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long > it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew > not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! > > -Patrick > S/V Violet Hour, LF38 > Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina > > ------------------------------------ > *Martin DeYoung* mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com > <cnc-list%40cnc-list.com?Subject=Re%3A%20Stus-List%20Yanmar%20Engine%20Mounts%20-%20aftermarket%20replacements%3F&In-Reply-To=%3C23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357D7B48ED%40DMI3.DMI.local%3E> > *Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013* > > I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I > used the R&D Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing > engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded > bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. > > In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to > build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the > fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the > older ones if possible. > > The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the > engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted > through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being > confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked > down in a heavy sea. > > One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor > jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let > me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is > much already written about the topic available. > > Martin > Calypso > 1970 C&C 43 > Seattle > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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