One thing that was important when I replaced mine was to try your best to match the settings on the current mounts. That gives you a decent place to start from in aligning to the prop shaft.
Andy Peregrine C&C 40 On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 9:43 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The advantage to using a small scissor jack is that you can make small > adjustments that will hold position while aligning the engine with the > propeller shaft. I used one when changing the mounts on my engine and found > it to be useful for that reason. > > Steve Thomas > C&C27 MKIII > Port Stanley, ON > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Robert Boyer via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com> ; Patrick Davin > <jda...@gmail.com> > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 12, 2015 06:00 > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement > > Patrick: > > The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced > over a winter. If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and > didn't need a jack. The two aft mounts were the toughest. > > Bob > > Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer > > On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of > the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. > > I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's > the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two > (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical > inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were > delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If > this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. > > I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online > reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - > a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair > amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission > premature wear. > > > Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be > interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even > though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you > mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm > ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm > expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts > look a bit rusted on. > > I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would > place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and > the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack > in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine > until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at > that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could > upload. > > Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long > it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew > not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! > > -Patrick > S/V Violet Hour, LF38 > Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina > > ------------------------------------ > *Martin DeYoung* mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com > <cnc-list%40cnc-list.com?Subject=Re%3A%20Stus-List%20Yanmar%20Engine%20Mounts%20-%20aftermarket%20replacements%3F&In-Reply-To=%3C23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357D7B48ED%40DMI3.DMI.local%3E> > *Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013* > > I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I > used the R&D Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing > engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded > bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. > > In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to > build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the > fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the > older ones if possible. > > The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the > engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted > through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being > confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked > down in a heavy sea. > > One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor > jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let > me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is > much already written about the topic available. > > Martin > Calypso > 1970 C&C 43 > Seattle > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260
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