Danny,
     I should add I did this on Lewmar Ocean Series hatches.  The process
might be different for different brands.  Cutting the lenses should be the
same, however.

Gary

~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~


On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 10:08 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Danny,
>      Yes, I did the hatches in place.  I got the 3/8" acrylic (Plexiglas)
> from a local plastic supplier, and cut them out using the pattern router.
> Basically, I stuck the old lens onto the new acrylic with folded masking
> tape (works like double sided tape but easier to remove), then ran the
> pattern router (AKA Formica trimmer) around the old lens which duplicated
> the old lens onto the new one.  It's actually quite easy.  I can duplicate
> a new lens in about 10 minutes.  If  you have any additional questions,
> just fire away.  After doing 5 hatches, I wonder why I didn't do it
> sooner.  As boat projects go it is quite easy and makes a beautiful
> difference.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 9:35 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Gary,
>>
>> Awesome write up!  Did you do the hatch lenses in place?  I need to do
>> all of my hatches.  As soon as I come up with a plan to seal the hatches
>> back up,  I'd like to take them all home to do the work.
>>
>> I may be bothering you fur more info on the lenses, where you got them
>> and how you cut them,  etc.  I saw I video where a guy used the butyl tape
>> on hatches like mine but,  found it oozed at the hinges.
>>
>> Anyway,  I'm envious of your upgrade!
>>
>> All the best
>> Danny
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Date: 12/2/2015 8:47 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
>> Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>
>> For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High
>> Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated
>> below.  I have successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and
>> replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has
>> been very successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the
>> temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature
>> of greater than 60 degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:
>>
>>
>>
>> #1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too
>> hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a
>> different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.
>> Removing the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat
>> underneath.  I tried a sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic
>> and all I managed to do was rip up the gel coat.
>>
>>
>>
>> #2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin
>> plywood (or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in
>> pieces and you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.
>>
>>
>>
>> #3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit
>> set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of
>> the Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a
>> smaller footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to
>> cut through the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.
>> Don’t cut all the way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the
>> window.  Otherwise, the window will sink under the weight of the router and
>> you will cut into the gel coat.  You can break out the tabs later.
>>
>>
>>
>> #4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with
>> low density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all
>> my gel coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the
>> windows are out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy.
>>
>>
>>
>> #5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router
>> bit (sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in
>> half lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or
>> template).  I ran the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t
>> slide in either direction with respect to each other.  It does a very nice
>> job and is quite easy.  I then used a 1/8” round off router bit on the
>> outside edge of the new window for cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer
>> bit on the inside edge to make room for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.
>>
>>
>>
>> #6.  I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around
>> where I wanted the window to go.  This would help me locate the window and
>> provide the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow.  I also
>> masked the edge of the new window for the same reason.
>>
>>
>>
>> #7.  Now cones the tricky part.  You only get one shot with the VHB tape,
>> because once it is down, it is not coming up.  I tried adhering two small
>> pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape,
>> and I can assure you, you won’t pull them apart.  VHB is amazing stuff.  As
>> a guide, I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take below the
>> window with a small piece of VHB tape.  By attaching it to the masking
>> tape, I was sure I could get it back off.  Actually, VHB doesn’t stick very
>> well to masking tape anyway.  I also stuck a small wooden block to the
>> masking tape at one end of the window as well.  This allowed me to set the
>> window on the two bottom block and then slide it over to the end block
>> before pushing the window into place.  By all means, make several trial
>> runs with the film still on the VHB tape before removing the film.  Once
>> the film is off you are committed.  I pushed the window in place and it
>> looked perfect.  Then it is simply a matter of squirting the Dow Corning
>> stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a finger.  As soon as the
>> silicon is smoothed out, you can remove the masking tape and pour yourself
>> a stiff one, while you admire the fine job you have done.
>>
>>
>>
>> #8.  There was concern expressed that the VHB tape would be visible
>> through the window, and it was suggested that the window should be painted
>> with Krylon Fusion Black.  Actually, the VHB tape is the same color as the
>> Plexus which is not visible, so the VHB won’t be visible either.  No paint
>> is necessary.  I used the darker shade of grey Plexiglas and can say that
>> it look spectacular.  The darker shade really “pops” and the contrast is
>> particularly attractive (in my humble opinion).  The darker color makes it
>> difficult to see into the boat, but has a minimal effect when looking out.
>> The VHB is not visible at all.
>>
>>
>>
>> #9.  There was also concern expressed concerning whether the curvature of
>> the coach roof would cause a flexing force to peel the VHB tape.  I can say
>> that the radius of curvature is very large (>20 feet) and the forces are
>> thus very small.  3/8” acrylic over those lengths is quite flexible.  I see
>> no problem at all.
>>
>>
>>
>> #9.  I have posted some pictures on Google Drive and I think you can view
>> them at:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwQRSP2fYIFmemxYOGlVcHNUNVk&usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>> I am new to posting pictures, so if you have trouble seeing them, email
>> me and we can get it fixed.  I will add more pictures as they become
>> available.
>>
>>
>>
>> #10.  Needless to say, I am thrilled with the outcome so far.  I have
>> also re-glazed the hatches using the Boatworks video and they came out
>> spectacular as well.  The only difference I made from their recommendations
>> is that I bedded the acrylic in butyl tape instead of the Dow Corning 795
>> because it was much easier to get a uniform bead and that was the way it
>> was done from the factory.  I still filled the gap around the windows with
>> the Dow Corning 795.  Boatworks is right, the Dow Corning 795 is nice stuff.
>>
>>
>>
>> #11.  If I have left anything out or you have any questions about this
>> post, just give me a shout.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> S/V High Maintenance
>>
>> ’90 C&C 37 Plus
>>
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>
>>
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