Hi Paul,
I did consider your proposal, but because my forward window was over
90" long, mounted on a curved surface and the area above was mostly
non-skid I was uncomfortable with that approach. Masking tape does not
stick well to non-skid and a bonding failure at a critical time would be a
disaster. I don't doubt that it would work well for many applications, and
might have worked for mine as well, but in the end, I was just
uncomfortable and looked for an alternative. Mounting the guide blocks
worked very well for me. Thanks for your post.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 8:35 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
> Hi Gary,
>
> As I mentioned on the list before, there is a simple solution for the
> tricky part.
>
> Before removing the protective film on the VHB tape, align the window
> exactly
> where you want it and run two wide strips of masking tape down from the
> cabin top
> onto the window spaced out like hinges. Then gently swing up the window,
> remove the VHB protective film, gently swing back down, and press firmly.
> Easy and
> accurate for one person to do even for ports over 50".
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Dec 2, 2015, at 8:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>
> #7. Now cones the tricky part. You only get one shot with the VHB tape,
> because once it is down, it is not coming up. I tried adhering two small
> pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape,
> and I can assure you, you won?t pull them apart. VHB is amazing stuff. As
> a guide, I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take below the
> window with a small piece of VHB tape. By attaching it to the masking
> tape, I was sure I could get it back off. Actually, VHB doesn?t stick very
> well to masking tape anyway. I also stuck a small wooden block to the
> masking tape at one end of the window as well. This allowed me to set the
> window on the two bottom block and then slide it over to the end block
> before pushing the window into place. By all means, make several trial
> runs with the film still on the VHB tape before removing the film. Once
> the film is off you are committed. I pushed the window in place and it
> looked perfect. Then it is simply a matter of squirting the Dow Corning
> stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a finger. As soon as the
> silicon is smoothed out, you can remove the masking tape and pour yourself
> a stiff one, while you admire the fine job you have done.
>
>
>
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