Thanks Gary. I had read about this issue in 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review30mk1.htm before I bought my boat. 
But I didn't know for certain whether it affected my particular boat until I 
was able to remove the mast step and inspect. When I surveyed the boat, the rig 
was up, so I couldn't check it then. I knew the PO had done some kind of 
reinforcement there, but I didn't know it was a wedge sitting atop the keel. 
I'll have a look at the list archives on this issue and maybe implement a 
different fix next off-season (I'm not sure I'm a fan of the wedge). Meanwhile 
I'll monitor for downward deflection this season, and use the manual bilge pump 
every visit. I'm only 20 minutes away from the boat and will be down there at 
least twice a week all season, and can go down specially after big rains. 

Thanks Again, 
Randy 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 11:49:44 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 



Randy, you have stumbled onto the major flaw in the construction on the 30-1. 
There have been many discussions on this site about the mast step. Some owners 
have filled this low part of the sump with fiberglass, others (me and….) have 
strengthened or replaced those cross supports. The big flaw is when they built 
the boat, they did not seal the bottom of those supports, so they have been 
sucking up any bilge water which gets that high (easy) and rotting. The other 
issue, as you have found, is the location of the bilge pump down in the low 
part of the sump. A decent sized one won’t fit. One with a remote switch won’t 
fit. 



So, the first issue is to find a pump which will go down that low. I am using a 
small Rule pump, directly wired to a switch on the DC panel. That way, I can 
get almost all the water out. Fortunately I live close to the boat, so can go 
down there and pump after each rain. 



I drilled a bunch of holes in the cross members and filled them with G-Flex, 
and then built the tops up to make them all level. Others have cut them out and 
replaced them with new and/or fiberglass ones. If you leave them as is, you 
will eventually have a sinking mast – mine was down about half an inch. 



Another way to keep that area dry is to get a pump with an inlet hose and which 
is self-priming. 



Contact me offline for more discussion, but look through the archives, there 
have been many discussions. 



Gary 

30-1 #593 

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:13 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step 





Listers- 





Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step to 
inspect beneath. The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed wood block 
~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers running athwartship 
which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the mast and transfer it to the 
hull. Those two timbers have been wet and appear to be a rot risk. The PO 
fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down into that lowest part of the bilge 
between the floor timbers, to further support the block under the mast step. 





My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top of 
the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby contribute 
to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the fiberglass keel 
stub i.e. the "C&C smile". Do you think this is a legitimate concern? Any 
thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor timbers or distribute the mast 
load to the hull? 





Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge pump 
float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher. Both the automatic and manual bilge 
pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the bilge, but the 
manual pump must be more effective at removing that water because of the float 
switch location. 





Thanks in advance for any comments. 





Cheers, 


Randy Stafford 


S/V Grenadine 


C&C 30-1 #7 


Ken Caryl, CO 

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