David,

Thank you sir!  I'll be in touch by phone soon.   No Bermuda plans for
Corsair this year?

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 11:46 AM
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

Chuck...I may have a spare fitting with a cap you can have.   

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _____  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 11:33:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net <mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net> 

I finally was able to remove the waste deck fitting cap by drilling the
holes for the deck fitting tool  deeper so that the tool would sit flush on
the deck fitting with the pins completely engaged in the holes.   Using a
vice grip as an extension on the spanner, I was able to free up the cap.

Does anyone know who was the source of the deck fittings for 1983 era Rhode
Island built boats?  I may want to have a spare cap for this deck fill since
when I drilled the holes deeper, there isn't much wall thickness remaining
where the tool goes into the cap.

The fitting and cap are chrome over bronze and the cap is nominally 2 3/8"
diameter.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com> 

email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> 


On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit
the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate
open. 

I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from
the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.

Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to
replace it anyway.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been "sitting" for a
number of years.  I've painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
functional and replaced items that needed updates.  

So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.

Well the one thing that wasn't checked in my systems review was the waste
fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I've tried several
deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
lid as they're only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?

 

My next approach is going to involve heat, but here's where the dilemma
begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
submission?   I've generally had good luck with applying heat to free
corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
the corrosive nature of what's in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
"super tool" that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?

I also haven't found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have
no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is
simply screwed in place?

While I don't think the tank is anywhere near full, I'd prefer not to spend
the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help
is out there, I'm open to suggestions.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 


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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

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