I did a complete job on mine last winter. With mast out.
Removed all the rod and shipped it to South Shore yacht in Ontario. They inspected everything and replaced backstay, uppers, all turnbuckle males, and all tangs. Reheaded the rest. My tangs were SS with an aluminium threaded joining part, and could not be removed even with heat. As recommended, I used 2 x 36” pipe wrenches and snapped the aluminium parts. The new tangs have SS threaded part. Coiled everything into 5’ dia, and shipped with fedex. No problem. I had just bought the boat in March 2015, with unknown rigging, so I consider this work to be a good investment, and peace of mind, which you cant put a price on. John LF38 #234 St Margarets Bay NS From: cenel...@aol.com [mailto:cenel...@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 Shipping the rod may not be practical but it is possible if necessary. Rod can be 'rolled' into a circle whose diameter depends on the rod diameter--IIRC for my 36 XL, I think the yard rolled it into about a 6' diameter circle before it was securely tied up and shipped via UPS or FedEx to Florida to have one of my stays re-headed. This is likely not a one-person job however! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com -----Original Message----- From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> Sent: Thu, Nov 3, 2016 11:02 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded. It is not a DIY job. If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and Hardware www.RiggingAndHardware.com for great service and pricing. They did new lifelines for my 44 for about $620. The rig would have to be down if you want to send them the old wire. If its rod, shipping is not practical, so they would go on measurements alone. Joel Former 35/3 Hylas 44 On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 10:55 AM, Larry via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Patrick I am in the same boat (lol) and understand that in the upcoming couple of years I will be faced with the problem. I purchased my boat 2 years ago and the survey gave the standard evaluation when buy a boat. So I hired rigger to give me his honest opinion. I was told everything was top of the line and in great shape, but it was 28 years old. I have been budgeting for it and researching. This are the websites I found that were helpful. http://sailingmagazine.net/article-1189-replacing-standing-rigging.html http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/a-diy-solution-to-tired-standing-rigging/ I have solid rigging and not sure if I want to continue with solid or not. I would be interested in reading others advice on CnC 38-ft solid rigging replacement. Larry 38-ft Mk III Freeland, WA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 7:20 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Stus-List Pointers on rerigging an LF38 I'm considering doing a rerig this winter. There are no obvious problems, but it's getting on 33 years now and would be nice for the peace of mind. Does anyone know of any blogs / websites / emails that do sort of a step by step guide to do-it-yourself rerigging? I'd like to do it myself to save on labor costs, but work with a local rigger hopefully to help with ordering the parts. I have one in mind who did my rig inspection plus replaced the D2s last year. The D2s (diagonals from lower spreader to mast near upper spreaders) are already new rod as of last year, due to some small cracks found at the upper rod ends of the old rod. I have the original rig schematics diagram. However Navtec no longer makes some of these parts. I understand the spreader 3-way join and the mast tangs are the tricky part. I searched the list archives but didn't find much on rerigs. I know Wally did a rerig but he didn't cover the details of it. I've seen some riggers say rerig requires unstepping the mast, but I'm not sure why they say this. If I can do this without pulling the mast that will save a lot of work and expense. Releasing the side shrouds at the upper terminations (stemballs) requires lifting the rod to near parallel to the ground and then unscrewing the navtang. When we did the D2s, this was easy. The caps unscrewed without any special efforts like heating. The uppers could be more difficult because they're longer (and perhaps hard to lift parallel to earth). If anyone knows of a good guide (ideally specific to C&C's) to this, I'd love to read it. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 Seattle, WA _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Joel 301 541 8551 <tel:301%20541%208551> _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
