Patrick,

I’m going to be going through the same decision making process that you are. I 
met with a rigger yesterday to get some suggestions and quotes on replacing the 
standing (and running) rigging on my boat. There are options, of which I will 
find out.

When he gets back to me with his list of options and pricing I may be able to 
help. Right now I’m inclined to continue with Navtec rod rigging. As I may have 
mentioned, I have already “invested” in the newer K200 tangs.

When I have further information, hopefully soon, I will post.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Nov 19, 2016, at 5:47 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Ok, I've found out a lot more in the last 3 weeks, but am frustratingly no 
> closer to making a decision. All I've learned is that Navtec parts are really 
> expensive and complex. And that everyone I talk to disagrees with the 
> previous person (ie, even professional riggers don't agree on what is 
> recommended + safe) - I suppose this is normal in sailing though. 
> 
> I found a few more old threads from the C&C list:
> 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-November/041498.html 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-November/041498.html>
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2014-April/066294.html 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2014-April/066294.html>
> 
> A lot of it seems to come down to the Navtangs. Navtec changed the design 
> several times (to make improvements), and Navtec had so much employee 
> turnover that there's only one guy remaining who has been through all the 
> iterations. 
> 
> My previous thinking was based on that my '84 has K150 tangs with SS tie rods 
> (confirmed by a rigger when we pulled one tang last year). And the tang was 
> easily unscrewed, which lends me hope the other 3 would also be similar. So I 
> assumed I could reuse my tangs, because it seems other C&C owners did so, and 
> last year's rigger said it looked reusable (based on visual inspection). 
> 
> However a more conservative rigger basically implied I would be stupid to 
> reuse it. Navtec recommends replacing them - but Navtec recommends replacing 
> anything older than 12 years old, so I don't really know what to make of 
> Navtec's advice (they have no incentive *not* to recommend replacing their 
> hardware with new hardware of their own). 
> 
> A local rigger told me the navtangs are $1000 each. I have 4 of them, so 
> replacing them would basically double the cost of a rerig (and that's not 
> counting any labor cost). (I think the $1k/each is an overestimate though - I 
> found a price online of $500-600). 
> 
> It seems like a lot of people who have rerigged haven't actually done full 
> rerigs - ie, they reused turnbuckles, or tangs. I do agree with the more 
> conservative rigger that it doesn't make sense to leave a "weak link" in the 
> system. But I'm not sure whether old navtangs must be automatically condemned 
> into the category of being a weak link. 
> 
> I'm seriously thinking about a wire conversion again, but that has it's own 
> complications. Has anyone done that on the side shrouds? From archives I know 
> Calypso did forestay/backstay, but those are easy to convert. The mast tangs 
> and discontinuous lower spreader junction are the tricky part.  
> 
> I found a Youtube channel where they replaced their Navtec rig with wire:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVhj714rleQ 
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVhj714rleQ>
> 
> But they have a Niagara 35 with a single spreader rig rather than double, so 
> that makes it a bit simpler. And the well-known rigger Brion Toss has said 
> (in his forum) that for a C&C, he would stay with rod, because rod makes a 
> difference to the responsiveness of C&C's. 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 9:16 AM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:jda...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were reheading. 
> Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not planning to rehead 
> though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading only saves a moderate 
> percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me extra piece of mind that I 
> did the full job, plus simplifies some things - my backstay hydraulic 
> adjuster is also dead, so I will replace that at the same time, and if the 
> new adjuster is a different length, I'll simply order the new backstay to the 
> proper size. 
> 
> I also considered going wire instead of rod, but the rigger I talked to last 
> year said it might not save that much money converting to wire, considering 
> the cost of mast tangs or other changes that would need to be made. I could 
> easily go wire on just the forestay and backstay. But not sure that's worth 
> the inconsistency. 
> 
> Mostly I'm interested in the logistics of doing it DIY - for others that went 
> that route, what went wrong, what was easy, what was hard, etc. 
> 
> On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 8:15 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com <mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: 
> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 11:01:48 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
> If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded.  It is not a DIY job.  
> If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and Hardware 
> www.RiggingAndHardware.com <http://www.riggingandhardware.com/>​ for great 
> service and pricing.  They did new lifelines for my 44 for about $620.  The 
> rig would have to be down if you want to send them the old wire.  If its rod, 
> shipping is not practical, so they would go on measurements alone.  
> 
> Joel
> Former 35/3
> Hylas 44
> 
> 
> 
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