If you go back a few weeks on the list you will find a lengthy post from me telling about my experience replacing all the #10 rod on my 38 mk2 with Dyform wire.
The wire has a little bit higher tensile strength than the rod. It is slightly – like a few thousandths – larger in diameter than the rod, so has a bit more windage. And the all up cost for replacement was just about what I was quoted for having Navtec evaluate the old rod. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 5:47 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 Ok, I've found out a lot more in the last 3 weeks, but am frustratingly no closer to making a decision. All I've learned is that Navtec parts are really expensive and complex. And that everyone I talk to disagrees with the previous person (ie, even professional riggers don't agree on what is recommended + safe) - I suppose this is normal in sailing though. I found a few more old threads from the C&C list: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-November/041498.html http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2014-April/066294.html A lot of it seems to come down to the Navtangs. Navtec changed the design several times (to make improvements), and Navtec had so much employee turnover that there's only one guy remaining who has been through all the iterations. My previous thinking was based on that my '84 has K150 tangs with SS tie rods (confirmed by a rigger when we pulled one tang last year). And the tang was easily unscrewed, which lends me hope the other 3 would also be similar. So I assumed I could reuse my tangs, because it seems other C&C owners did so, and last year's rigger said it looked reusable (based on visual inspection). However a more conservative rigger basically implied I would be stupid to reuse it. Navtec recommends replacing them - but Navtec recommends replacing anything older than 12 years old, so I don't really know what to make of Navtec's advice (they have no incentive *not* to recommend replacing their hardware with new hardware of their own). A local rigger told me the navtangs are $1000 each. I have 4 of them, so replacing them would basically double the cost of a rerig (and that's not counting any labor cost). (I think the $1k/each is an overestimate though - I found a price online of $500-600). It seems like a lot of people who have rerigged haven't actually done full rerigs - ie, they reused turnbuckles, or tangs. I do agree with the more conservative rigger that it doesn't make sense to leave a "weak link" in the system. But I'm not sure whether old navtangs must be automatically condemned into the category of being a weak link. I'm seriously thinking about a wire conversion again, but that has it's own complications. Has anyone done that on the side shrouds? From archives I know Calypso did forestay/backstay, but those are easy to convert. The mast tangs and discontinuous lower spreader junction are the tricky part. I found a Youtube channel where they replaced their Navtec rig with wire: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVhj714rleQ But they have a Niagara 35 with a single spreader rig rather than double, so that makes it a bit simpler. And the well-known rigger Brion Toss has said (in his forum) that for a C&C, he would stay with rod, because rod makes a difference to the responsiveness of C&C's. -Patrick 1984 C&C Landfall 38 Seattle, WA On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 9:16 AM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com <mailto:jda...@gmail.com> > wrote: Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were reheading. Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not planning to rehead though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading only saves a moderate percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me extra piece of mind that I did the full job, plus simplifies some things - my backstay hydraulic adjuster is also dead, so I will replace that at the same time, and if the new adjuster is a different length, I'll simply order the new backstay to the proper size. I also considered going wire instead of rod, but the rigger I talked to last year said it might not save that much money converting to wire, considering the cost of mast tangs or other changes that would need to be made. I could easily go wire on just the forestay and backstay. But not sure that's worth the inconsistency. Mostly I'm interested in the logistics of doing it DIY - for others that went that route, what went wrong, what was easy, what was hard, etc. On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 8:15 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > wrote: From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com <mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> " <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 11:01:48 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded. It is not a DIY job. If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and Hardware www.RiggingAndHardware.com <http://www.RiggingAndHardware.com> for great service and pricing. They did new lifelines for my 44 for about $620. The rig would have to be down if you want to send them the old wire. If its rod, shipping is not practical, so they would go on measurements alone. Joel Former 35/3 Hylas 44
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