Tom,

Back from taping and masking the deck. No-one told my how much time this will 
take. Yeesh.

What Chuck said. I did some fun what-ifs on non-steel standing rigging and 
pretty much came to the same conclusion. Not really appropriate for a 34-year 
old cruiser.

I am going to be replacing all my lifelines, after replacing all the old 
stanchions, (Oy!) with New England Ropes STS-WR2 Dyneema. 
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiiIwHSOmZ8&list=PLvD5qlROxJu3r8aIu4JitzFHsqu1pxDAO&index=13>
  At the same time I’m having the rigger fabricate a new baby-stay tie-down out 
of the same material. The original Navtec rod rigging section that attached the 
baby-stay track to the stringer in the forward cabin gave up the ghost long ago.

Still leaning towards replacing all the existing standing rigging with newer 
Navtec rod.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Nov 4, 2016, at 1:56 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Seeing as how synthetic rope lifelines got banned due to being sawed apart by 
> chafe, I think I would stick with stainless steel. YMMV.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
> Gilchrest via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 1:53 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>  
> Tom,
> As a person in the rope business, the information included in the attached 
> article is spot on, but he neglects to include the most commonly used fiber 
> for standing rigging: PBO aka Zylon.   Zylon has virtually no creep and is 
> extremely strong and light.  However,  Inherent in PBO rigging is very poor 
> UV resistance and the cost of the material itself along with the highly 
> specialized terminals used in affixing the stays and shrouds to the spars and 
> boat can drive the price into the tens of thousands.  As such, PBO rigging is 
> often seen with a vinyl coating that runs the length of the shroud to prevent 
> UV degradation.  Also, the servicing intervals for retiring PBO and Dyneema 
> standing rigging is far more frequent than equivalent steel wire or rod.  
> Even so, look at any high performance Grand Prix boat where every ounce 
> counts(Vendee Globe, America’s Cup, Volvo Ocean Race, Sydney Hobart, etc.) 
> and the top of the fleet will all be using PBO standing rigging.
>  
> You will find Dyneema, mostly heat set like Dynex Dux being used as standing 
> rigging in lightweight performance catamarans, but often these boat will have 
> masts that are frequently un-stepped for transportation and trailering.  
> Lightweight is a factor as well.   Rather than using heavy stainless 
> turnbuckles, tension is achieved with lightweight deadeyes and lashings.  All 
> this translates to great advantages for high performance race machines, but 
> dubious value to heavy displacement cruiser/racers.  Just like most 
> materials, there’s always trade offs that one must make in technologies.  
> Between managing the creep and tensioning of the shrouds along with devising 
> proper terminations that can be used on existing chainplates, I’m sure there 
> are riggers that will gladly accept your boat dollars to figure it all out.   
> For sure, I would avoid using any synthetic standing rigging on any headstay 
> that would be encapsulated or attached to a jib furler with a foil.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
>   <>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 1:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com <mailto:t...@sv-alera.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>  
> Any thoughts on going to Dyneema for standing rigging?
>  
> http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging
>  
> <http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>  
> 
> On Nov 4, 2016, at 6:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> From: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com <mailto:dave.god...@me.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
> Message-ID: <045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com 
> <mailto:045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used 
> on our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. 
> The caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they 
> were a combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and 
> cause the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 
> style of tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of 
> the original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast. 
> 
> Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss 
> replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called 
> old technology?) so that?s why I?m at a loss to understand what the type of 
> standing rigging it is. I?ll find out in a week or two when we get together 
> to go over my rig.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ 
> <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>>
> 
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
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