well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back to the boat.  It would not start the engine.  I did jump start it and found the alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I ran out and bought an interstate starting battery.  I installed that, started the engine and got 14.4 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went sailing!

Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not taking the charge, would the alternator just keep trying to charge the starting battery and never reach a full charge so never send anything to the house?  In essence, the spent battery was the break in the system like a bucket with a big hole in it?


On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.

Josh



On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and will slow
    and then stop charge as battery charges.  It is sitting with
    charger attached just reading voltage



    Thanks,
    Danny
    -------- Original message --------
    From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
    <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
    Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
    To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
    Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
    Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

    12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the charger. 
    Even the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v

    It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the
    battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7
     the charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into
    the battery.  This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils
    off electrolyte.  Under this condition the battery voltage may
    never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7.  It will quickly
    decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the charger is removed. 
    This may take a few hours to occur.  If/When a load is applied the
    voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v.  If this
    is the case then you need a new battery.

    Josh Muckley
    S/V Sea Hawk
    1989 C&C 37+
    Solomons, MD




    On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

         Hi Rick,
        Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed just 12.1
        when I put it on the charger.  I just went out and battery now
        shows full at 12.9 volts.

        It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries.  This
        is one system I haven't dug into yet.  I guess that's going to
        change...

        I think I need to find a diagram somewhere



        Thanks,
        Danny

        -------- Original message --------
        From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
        <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
        Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
        To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
        Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net
        <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
        Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

        Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the
        engine is running, the alternator is probably OK.

        When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to
        assume that the start battery will not start the engine?

        Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour
        capacity of the start battery, it will probably never get
        below 95% to 99% state of charge. (Unless, of course, you are
        using it to also power your house loads.)

        For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for
        about 30 seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about
        1.3% discharge on the 105AH deep cycle battery I use for
        starting. (And only for starting except in an emergency)

        So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in
        just a few minutes of engine run time, and the full output
        from the alternator then gets directed to the house bank if
        that is at a lower state of charge. If both are fully charged,
        the current flow just creates heat.

        Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and
        battery switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more,
        everything is probably OK.

        If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need
        a new battery.

        Rick Brass

        Washington, NC

        *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
        <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Danny
        Haughey via CnC-List
        *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM
        *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
        *Cc:* Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com
        <mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>>
        *Subject:* Stus-List Charging issues

        So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after a long
        motoring trip my starting battery and house batteries are not
        charging.  The house batteries charge under shore power.

        I'm taking the starting battery home to throw on a charger to
        see if it will take a charge.  If oin l I'm seeing the 14 amps
        can I assume the alternator is working?

        Thanks,

        Danny

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