This reminds me of a method I used on a Soling I had several years ago, I started with a quarter inch hole in the low point and would fill with epoxy in the spring, but then I just got a large pan head SS machine screw and put a small and larger O ring under the head and a wing nut on the inside, worked great.
Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 7:24 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight veinot Subject: Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40 Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my 35 MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the depressions between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength where the keel bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to allow water to flow forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall i drill a 1/2 inch hole angled downward from the inside port side at the lowest spot between one pair of these strength members and every spring I clean the inside of that hole with sand paper followed by a wssh with an acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a small wood plug in to about 1/8 inch depth from the outside and use a syringe filled with thickened epoxy from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up to avoid entrapped air. When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over the epoxy but because the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about an inch long the epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood plug, fair with a dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My prefered way to avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a lot of work either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 years of doing it this way no complaints or problems. On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 with great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this list serve but it works very well. Moving the magnets around, I found the lowest place in the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable place where the keel is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, once the position was marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the contour of the hull/keel joint, came out just where the internal magnet had been located. Drilled a pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the right place in the bilge. An improvement this winter was to pull a piece of absorbent cloth thru the hole and hanging down a few inches on the outside, which acted like a wick. This kept the bilge completely dry all winter. Based on an earlier suggestion on this list serve to use a wick to drain the low point on the deck thru one of the holes in the toe rail, where it also works very well. Eric Frank, C&C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought wouldn?t connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very strong magnets at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of where I thought the lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to the Inside Magnet! Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be taking a blind chance. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray -- Sent from Gmail Mobile
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
