A friend does exactly this on his C&C 35 Mk.1 and has been doing it for years. Works well.
Ken H. On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 at 08:24, dwight veinot via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my > 35 MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the > depressions between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength > where the keel bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to > allow water to flow forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall > i drill a 1/2 inch hole angled downward from the inside port side at the > lowest spot between one pair of these strength members and every spring I > clean the inside of that hole with sand paper followed by a wssh with an > acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a small wood plug in to about 1/8 > inch depth from the outside and use a syringe filled with thickened epoxy > from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up to avoid entrapped air. > When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over the epoxy but because > the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about an inch long the > epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood plug, fair with a > dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My prefered way to > avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a lot of work > either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 years > of doing it this way no complaints or problems. > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 >> with great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this >> list serve but it works very well. Moving the magnets around, I found the >> lowest place in the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable >> place where the keel is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, >> once the position was marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the >> contour of the hull/keel joint, came out just where the internal magnet had >> been located. Drilled a pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the >> right place in the bilge. An improvement this winter was to pull a piece of >> absorbent cloth thru the hole and hanging down a few inches on the outside, >> which acted like a wick. This kept the bilge completely dry all winter. >> Based on an earlier suggestion on this list serve to use a wick to drain >> the low point on the deck thru one of the holes in the toe rail, where it >> also works very well. >> >> Eric Frank, C&C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA >> >> >> I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought >> wouldn?t connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very >> strong magnets at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of >> where I thought the lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to >> the Inside Magnet! >> >> Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be >> taking a blind chance. >> Bill Coleman >> >> C&C 39 Erie, PA >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> -- > Sent from Gmail Mobile > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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