Hi Shawn,
Since you're hauled out for two weeks, why not do
the keel joint properly? It will mean using an
amount of epoxy to warrant purchasing a 2 litre
pack, some fibre & tape. Leftovers go into
general storage for cruising projects/repairs.
Remember: cruising is simply the act of
travelling to some other place to work on your boat. :)
Try a solvent wash on the black goo. If it
dissolves with a bit of exposure to solvent or
gasoline then it's probably butyl sealant.
For local epoxy & great customer service I have
been using Fiber Tek products for bulk epoxy.
https://www.fibertek.ca/product-category/fiberglass-materials/epoxy-resins/aqua-set/
Years ago my fave was Industial Formulatiors but
they were bought up by Systems Three many years
ago. The Cold Cure formulation is still the best wet cure repair epoxy, IMHO.
Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1
=================================================================================
Next is a set of instruction from Dennis, provided many year ago.
One thing to add, if you expose fresh lead while
sanding/grinding it needs an epoxy primer coat
right away as oxidation starts immediately.
My routine was: at the end of the day I would mix
a small batch of epoxy and freshly sand any
exposed lead while the little woman would come
follow right after and brush on the neat epoxy.
From Dennis:
Here's the revised, completed reply.
The pics on the photoalbum are of my 35-1,
Touche'. I repaired the smile when I bought the
boat in 1999. Here's the words to go with the pics.
* Tighten the keelbolts. If you don't
properly torque the bolts, any attempts to fix
the smile may fail. The torque specs are on the
photoalbum site under the "Technical Info"
button. Keelbolts should be backed off then
torque dry (without lubrication) to the proper spec.
* Dig out and loose crumbly keel material at
the hull/keel joint back to solid material.
* Preparation is critical. Rough up the
fiberglass and make sure all dust and loose particles are removed.
* Fill the area with thickened epoxy. You
can use epoxy thickened with microfibers if the
gap is fairly narrow (1/4 inch or less). If the
gap is wider, I would use epoxy thickened with
chopped fiber or "kitty hair". I used chopped
carbon fiber (whoohoo! high tech!) If the gap is
wide, fill in a few layers rather than one large fill.
* After curing, fair out the repair.
* I covered the entire hull keel joint with a
strip of 4 inch biaxial tape and epoxy.
* I then covered the first layer of tape with
2 overlapping strips of biaxial tape and
epoxy. Probably overkiil if the bolts are properly torqued.
* Fair out the repair.
This repair has held for 12 years. I have had a
fairly hard grounding or two with no noticeable effects.
I am familiar with G-Flex having used it to
re-attach the floor in an inflatable dinghy
(worked fairly well). As this repair involves a
joint that is under significant compression, I
think I would want a material that was rigid and did not compress.
Now for the caveats. This assumes that your
hull, keel stub, keelbolts, washers, spacers and
keel top are all in good condition.
If the washers and/or spacers under your keelbolt
nuts are not stainless, change them now.
A chronic leak could have deteriorated the
keelbolts. A friend of mine with a Tartan 33 had
a chronic leak at the hull/keel joint. When the
yard dropped his keel, a few of his keelbolts
were deteriorated. The keel was shipped to Mars Metals for bolt replacement.
Problems with the integrity and construction of
the keel stub have been reports for some
boats. I'll let other listers describe these issues.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
=========================================================================================================
At 09:03 AM 5/4/2019, you wrote:
Thanks for the info. The fellow I spoke with
owns a Landfall 42, and suggested for the small
amount I will need, they should have some at the
club that I can use, rather than buying a whole
tin. I will see if it is G-Flex that they have.
Although I will need to haul again next year for
a new survey, I'd prefer to do this job right
this time, and not have to dig into it again.
I'm also planning to check the keel bolt torque.
Should I do this before applying epoxy? The
joint seems very tight, with no sign of a smile
- just a bit of lead corrosion at the leading
edge. I suppose I could take some of the weight
off the keel with the stands to see if it opens
up, but I doubt it will based on the tight sealant I pulled out.
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:20 PM Josh Muckley via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have not heard of anyone using Sikaflex. I
would recommend G-Flex and follow the prescription in the link below.
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ
On Thu, May 2, 2019, 10:59 PM Shawn Wright via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hello all,
I spent the day wet-sanding the bottom of
Callisto and she is nearly ready for a coat of
paint. I also cut out the old keel joint rubbery
sealant, in preparation for some Sikaflex 291. I
plan to scrub the gap a bit more and clean with
lacquer thinner before letting dry.Â
All the through hulls look good, bronze with marelon valves.
I have two depth transducers, one for a Standard
Horizon DS30, and the other for a Garmin 140
Fishfinder, both working. There is a plug for
the old B&G speed sensor, but I was pleased to
find another newer speed sensor in good shape,
it appears to be a Garmin like this:
<http://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=103>http://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=103
The specs show either a NMEA 2000 or analog
cable, but I haven't traced it yet to determine
which one I have. Of course, the B&G H1000
system I have only does NMEA 0183, so I will
need a signal converter, I think. I'm hesitant
to spend any money on the old B&G system until I
verify the pieces I have actually work though.
Also, the plug for the old B&G sensor is very
thin plastic, about 2mm thick. I'm thinking of
filling the hollow plug with epoxy so it doesn't
sink the boat if it ever cracks. Or maybe just
find a better one? It's 1 3/4" diameter.
--
Shawn Wright
<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>shawngwri...@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with
your contributions. Each and every one is
greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution
--Â Â <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with
your contributions. Each and every one is
greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution
--Â Â <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
--
Shawn Wright
<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>shawngwri...@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with
your contributions. Each and every one is
greatly appreciated. If you want to support the
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
