Thanks, Russ. I will check this out. The black goo cleaned up easily with lacquer thinner (all I had on hand) and there was not too much of it. I'll see what I can find in Victoria for epoxy.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 10:34 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Shawn, > > Since you're hauled out for two weeks, why not do the keel joint properly? > It will mean using an amount of epoxy to warrant purchasing a 2 litre pack, > some fibre & tape. Leftovers go into general storage for cruising > projects/repairs. > > Remember: cruising is simply the act of travelling to some other place to > work on your boat. :) > > Try a solvent wash on the black goo. If it dissolves with a bit of > exposure to solvent or gasoline then it's probably butyl sealant. > > For local epoxy & great customer service I have been using Fiber Tek > products for bulk epoxy. > > https://www.fibertek.ca/product-category/fiberglass-materials/epoxy-resins/aqua-set/ > > Years ago my fave was Industial Formulatiors but they were bought up by > Systems Three many years ago. The Cold Cure formulation is still the best > wet cure repair epoxy, IMHO. > > Cheers, Russ > ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1 > > > ================================================================================= > Next is a set of instruction from Dennis, provided many year ago. > One thing to add, if you expose fresh lead while sanding/grinding it needs > an epoxy primer coat right away as oxidation starts immediately. > My routine was: at the end of the day I would mix a small batch of epoxy > and freshly sand any exposed lead while the little woman would come follow > right after and brush on the neat epoxy. > > From Dennis: > Here's the revised, completed reply. > > The pics on the photoalbum are of my 35-1, Touche'. I repaired the smile > when I bought the boat in 1999. Here's the words to go with the pics. > > 1. Tighten the keelbolts. If you don't properly torque the bolts, any > attempts to fix the smile may fail. The torque specs are on the photoalbum > site under the "Technical Info" button. Keelbolts should be backed off > then torque dry (without lubrication) to the proper spec. > 2. Dig out and loose crumbly keel material at the hull/keel joint back > to solid material. > 3. Preparation is critical. Rough up the fiberglass and make sure all > dust and loose particles are removed. > 4. Fill the area with thickened epoxy. You can use epoxy thickened > with microfibers if the gap is fairly narrow (1/4 inch or less). If the > gap is wider, I would use epoxy thickened with chopped fiber or "kitty > hair". I used chopped carbon fiber (whoohoo! high tech!) If the gap is > wide, fill in a few layers rather than one large fill. > 5. After curing, fair out the repair. > 6. I covered the entire hull keel joint with a strip of 4 inch biaxial > tape and epoxy. > 7. I then covered the first layer of tape with 2 overlapping strips of > biaxial tape and epoxy. Probably overkiil if the bolts are properly > torqued. > 8. Fair out the repair. > > > This repair has held for 12 years. I have had a fairly hard grounding or > two with no noticeable effects. > > I am familiar with G-Flex having used it to re-attach the floor in an > inflatable dinghy (worked fairly well). As this repair involves a joint > that is under significant compression, I think I would want a material that > was rigid and did not compress. > > Now for the caveats. This assumes that your hull, keel stub, keelbolts, > washers, spacers and keel top are all in good condition. > > If the washers and/or spacers under your keelbolt nuts are not stainless, > change them now. > > A chronic leak could have deteriorated the keelbolts. A friend of mine > with a Tartan 33 had a chronic leak at the hull/keel joint. When the yard > dropped his keel, a few of his keelbolts were deteriorated. The keel was > shipped to Mars Metals for bolt replacement. > > Problems with the integrity and construction of the keel stub have been > reports for some boats. I'll let other listers describe these issues. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > ========================================================================================================= > > At 09:03 AM 5/4/2019, you wrote: > > Thanks for the info. The fellow I spoke with owns a Landfall 42, and > suggested for the small amount I will need, they should have some at the > club that I can use, rather than buying a whole tin. I will see if it is > G-Flex that they have. > > Although I will need to haul again next year for a new survey, I'd prefer > to do this job right this time, and not have to dig into it again. I'm also > planning to check the keel bolt torque. Should I do this before applying > epoxy? The joint seems very tight, with no sign of a smile - just a bit of > lead corrosion at the leading edge. I suppose I could take some of the > weight off the keel with the stands to see if it opens up, but I doubt it > will based on the tight sealant I pulled out. > > On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I have not heard of anyone using Sikaflex. I would recommend G-Flex and > follow the prescription in the link below. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Thu, May 2, 2019, 10:59 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello all, > > I spent the day wet-sanding the bottom of Callisto and she is nearly ready > for a coat of paint. I also cut out the old keel joint rubbery sealant, in > preparation for some Sikaflex 291. I plan to scrub the gap a bit more and > clean with lacquer thinner before letting dry. > > All the through hulls look good, bronze with marelon valves. > > I have two depth transducers, one for a Standard Horizon DS30, and the > other for a Garmin 140 Fishfinder, both working. There is a plug for the > old B&G speed sensor, but I was pleased to find another newer speed sensor > in good shape, it appears to be a Garmin like this: > > http://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=103 > > The specs show either a NMEA 2000 or analog cable, but I haven't traced it > yet to determine which one I have. Of course, the B&G H1000 system I have > only does NMEA 0183, so I will need a signal converter, I think. I'm > hesitant to spend any money on the old B&G system until I verify the pieces > I have actually work though. > > Also, the plug for the old B&G sensor is very thin plastic, about 2mm > thick. I'm thinking of filling the hollow plug with epoxy so it doesn't > sink the boat if it ever cracks. Or maybe just find a better one? It's 1 > 3/4" diameter. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
