There should always be sufficient tension in the steering cables that they are 
never “slack” enough to allow the adjusting bolts to be loose.
If the swaged Rod is so corroded that it can’t  be slid through the holes in 
the quadrant, or turned to adjust tension, simply cut them off and replace the 
chain/ cable assembly.  It’s time!  Once the cable is cut, you’ll be able to 
unscrew the rod using a vice grip or other such tool.
But I can’t stress this enough:  don’t take cheap shortcuts regarding steering 
system components.  By performing regular maintenance on cable tension, 
inspection and lubrication using Edson guidelines, you can avoid scenarios like 
Dennis is experiencing.  In terms of priority maintenance, I rank steering 
right behind flotation (seacocks and through hulls).
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA



> On May 10, 2019, at 4:53 PM, DMcMillan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Maybe if the swaged threaded rod was not corroded in the hole, it is possible 
> that there could be some movement of the rod when it is not under tension 
> i.e. the wheel is turned in the opposite direction.   The movement in the 
> hole could possibly damage the threads making adjustment difficult?
>  
> BTW, what is a “take up eye”?  you mean an eye bolt?
>  
> Dennis M
>  
> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: May 10, 2019 11:25 AM
> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
>  
> Makes sense.  Thanks.
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 1:09 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I neglected to answer the second question:
> These days, take up eyes are simply easier to install in the system.  If you 
> have swaged threaded rod on the end of the cables, it can be a bear to thread 
> down through the idler and turning sheaves around and through  the holes on a 
> quadrant or radial, whereas using take up eyes makes for a much easier 
> threading of the steering cables through the sheaves and around the quadrant. 
>  The take up eyes can be pre-installed on the radial or quadrant and much of 
> the initial tension can be pre-tensioned with rope clamps, adjusting the 
> final length of the steering cable.
> Also, a swaged rod can be subject to crevice corrosion where the cable end is 
> installed into the threaded rod fitting, similar to a lifeline.  Hard to see 
> the corrosion when it is covered.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2019 1:48 PM
> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
>  
> Chuck,
>  
> Why does Edson not want a nut opposite the tensioning and lock nuts.  Just 
> because it is redundant and serves no purpose?
>  
> Is a tensioning stud bad?  Is an adjusting eye better?
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Per Edson’s instructions, both nuts go on the “bitter end” of the cable.  One 
> is to tension the cable, the other is a locking nut to prevent the other nut 
> from coming loose.
> FWIW, if you’re dealing with a swaged threaded rod on the end of the cable 
> and chain, you’re using a 38 year old steering component that is recommended 
> to be changed every 10 years.  So cut the cable, remove the threaded rod from 
> the radial drive, get a new chain/cable set up with take up eyes and rope 
> clamps and be happy the old one never failed!
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> 1983 Landfall 35
>  
>  
>  
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