Dennis, As long as you have two nuts on the tensioning side, you’re good to go.
Putting a nut on the “cable” side of the threaded take up eye or swaged rod simply prevents you from adding tension when you adjust the cable with the adjusting nut. If your lock nut is outboard of the tensioning nut where it is supposed to be, it prevents the tension nut (and associated cable assembly) from getting loose until you loosen the lock nut. Why would you want a nut placed on the side of the quadrant or radial that would keep the cable from getting tighter? When a cable is under tension, it naturally wants to get looser, and the lock nut outboard of the tensioning nut prevents that. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 10, 2019 1:48 PM To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck Chuck, Why does Edson not want a nut opposite the tensioning and lock nuts. Just because it is redundant and serves no purpose? Is a tensioning stud bad? Is an adjusting eye better? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Per Edson’s instructions, both nuts go on the “bitter end” of the cable. One is to tension the cable, the other is a locking nut to prevent the other nut from coming loose. FWIW, if you’re dealing with a swaged threaded rod on the end of the cable and chain, you’re using a 38 year old steering component that is recommended to be changed every 10 years. So cut the cable, remove the threaded rod from the radial drive, get a new chain/cable set up with take up eyes and rope clamps and be happy the old one never failed! Chuck Gilchrest 1983 Landfall 35
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