Good luck with the troubleshooting.  
Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and photos 
here

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew <wadeg...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat for a 
> couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and suggestions 
> of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how it goes
> Wade 
> Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> My 2 cents. 
>> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad connection, 
>> likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house circuits 
>> cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad connection but 
>> the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the voltage enough 
>> that things stop working but the start current drops the voltage to much. 
>> It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low amps there is less 
>> voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current and you produce more 
>> voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance and your gonna drop 6V.  
>> Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read 12V. 
>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at the 
>> starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the 
>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the 
>> issue is in the hot path. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>>> From: Jeff Helsdingen <onemorej...@gmail.com>
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all the 
>>> ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery 
>>> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem 
>>> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well 
>>> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly 
>>> become undersized quickly too.
>>> 
>>> Jeff Helsdingen
>>> Caposhi
>>> C&C 35 mk 1 #54
>>> Port Stanley On.
>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough 
>>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be 
>>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>> 
>>>> — Fred
>>>> 
>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>> 
>>>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my 
>>>>>> electrical issue du jour.  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.  
>>>>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years 
>>>>>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my 
>>>>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I 
>>>>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days 
>>>>>> out sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of 
>>>>>> music playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not 
>>>>>> start.  Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the 
>>>>>> Master Switch on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point 
>>>>>> all 12V electrical activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  
>>>>>> Prior to switching to Bat 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 
>>>>>> 12.4V with estimated time on battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a 
>>>>>> portable battery pack onto my starter battery and it read 12.4 V from 
>>>>>> the battery.  However, powering up the battery pack and connecting to my 
>>>>>> starter battery allowed me to start the engine.  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new 
>>>>>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then 
>>>>>> left for a few more days on the water. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.  
>>>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see 
>>>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.  
>>>>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to 
>>>>>> both batteries.   
>>>>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are 
>>>>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link 
>>>>>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low 
>>>>>> battery power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to 
>>>>>> either Bat 1 or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, 
>>>>>> all 12V electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the 
>>>>>> portable battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL 
>>>>>> position, the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is 
>>>>>> turning too slowly.  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the 
>>>>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I 
>>>>>> would appreciate any suggestions
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Wade
>>>>>> Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II
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