I suggest changing to the linked setup. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk
Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the > plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky > connection. Seems this is a common problem base on this forum: > > > https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html > > I emailed Blue Sea and await their response. > > Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a > battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor. Now I’m worried about simply > replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure. > > Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d > needed power in a hurry. > > I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in > case this happens again or for jump starting, etc. > > Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list? > > Thanks, > Jeremy > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
