That’s a fancy version of the one I had years ago (more bells and whistles).

From: Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 11:03 PM
To: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
Cc: Doug Robinson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

I just replaced the old switches with a new BlueSea's panel and their ACS.  
Simple device replaces all the trauma and gets the job done.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=blue-sea-systems-dual-battery-bank-management-panel&path=-1|328|2290000|2290006&id=1446905


On 11/18/19 9:15 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote:

  Shawn,

  This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can deliver 
high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained significantly, 
on the starting bank,  and deep-cycle type which are intended to drain down to 
much lower level over a longer time, on the house bank.  It would depend your 
use and on how often you recharge whether this is important or not, to be sure. 
 And there are now dual purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you 
use them.  

  One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting voltage dip 
from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,  one of the main 
reasons I chose this. 

  Neil Gallagher
  Weatherly, 35-1
  Glen Cove, NY


  On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:

    I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often 
is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being 
drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries, I 
could just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and a 
switch between the buses? Something to consider depending on how far I get 
carried away with my electrical. Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, 
and just leave them combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If 
I'm concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for too long 
(and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't happened. And so far, 
the only significant load we have is the fridge, with minimal electronics. Once 
we add radar, that will change... 

    --
    Shawn Wright
    shawngwri...@gmail.com
    S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
    https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto



    On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

      I suggest changing to the linked setup. 

      
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk


      Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch. 

      Josh Muckley 
      S/V Sea Hawk 
      1989 C&C 37+
      Solomons, MD

      On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

        Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the 
plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky connection. 
  Seems this is a common problem base on this forum: 

        
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

        I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

        Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a 
battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply replacing 
with the same one if it’s prone to failure.  

        Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if 
I’d needed power in a hurry. 

        I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter 
in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.  

        Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?  

        Thanks,
          Jeremy
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