Josh and Rob - thanks for your comments. I did torque the bolts while in
the water after reading a convincing post about how little extra torque is
needed to overcome the weight of the keel (think of the leverage of each
bolt's screw thread).  The suggestion for a much heavier keel only worked
out to 10% more torque. I also figured the keel's weight distribution would
be more even that way too because the keel is a little tricky to block
evenly on land. That said, I would not be surprised if when I haul it and
block it that it will tighten up a little as Josh suggests. I believe I can
see all the keel bolts - there is one that is a tight fit under the
compression post pad.

Rob - I used a 4 by 4 post and a screw jack to replace the compression post
temporarily after loosening the rig. This allowed me to remove the post and
repair the aluminum base casting. I then rebuilt the step. The underlying
plywood pad was solid but had bowed in the middle, so I tabbed it in below
to prevent it sinking further and then built it back up level with
fibreglass and epoxy before adding a 1/4 inch aluminum plate cut to fit
under the post base. Interestingly the base was full of large shim washers
almost to the top - must have been done that way by C&C because their
compression posts were too short for some reason. I removed one shim washer
to compensate for my increased base thickness and all went back together
just fine.

Chris
_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Reply via email to