If you lubricate the threads, reduce the torque by 10%.  The torque values on the list (which I generated decades ago) are based on dry threads.  They calculate a little high on the nebulous yield strengths of stainless steels.  Be careful going on the high side.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
(1970 Redwing 35, C&C 35-1, Hull #7, "Corsair" when the tables were generated)

On 4/24/2020 1:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only be tightened while the boat is ashore.

While that is a convenient activity during the annual haulout period that Eastern boats get, it is not entirely practical for us on the West Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or three years.

The technical sheet in the link shows the theoretical load on a 1" bolt (torque to 350 ft-lbs spec) is ~12,000 lbs. This is more than the weight of the keel such that it does not matter whether the keel is supported on the ground or hanging in the water, the joint is held firmly together by one keelbolt. The rest are not required to do anything at this time.
https://www.hobson.com.au/files/technical/utd-gd-torque-tension.pdf

I suggest that the proper procedure for tightening keelboats be observed whether the boat is in water or in the yard.

For a 1" keelboat to 350 ft-lbs torque:

    start with centre nut and take it to 250 ft-lbs, repeat for other
nuts alternating for and aft sequence remove centre nut and lubricate, retorque to 300 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above retorque centre nut to 350 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above Then you can a have a beer Chris and reflect on how fortunate you are to be sailing B.C South Coast. Anything 100 miles to the east of you is beyond Hope.
   :)     <VBG>

Cheers, Russ
East side o'  Vancouver Island


At 08:15 AM 4/24/2020, you wrote:
Chris,

The prevailing wisdom of this list suggests that the keel bolts only be torqued while the boat is resting on its keel, generally about 60% of it's weight depending on the design.  In this way you are not turning the nuts against the weight of the keel or even trying to compress the bedding material.  IMO, it is likely that you will find more movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land.

I am not familiar with the design of your particular boat but some boats have keel bolts which are entirely inaccessible with the mast in place.  Make sure there isn't one (or two) hiding somewhere.

Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    Status update: I ended up torquing the keel bolts. They were not
    incredibly loose but all of them needed tightening, two by a turn
    or more and the other two by less than a turn. I will know if
    this removed the keel movement when the boat is next hauled out,
    although I am also thinking of diving on her to see if I can
    detect any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the water is pretty
    cold but manageable for a few minutes with a wet suit - I hope!).
    I believe that a very small looseness in a narrow keel root would
    result in a fairly noticeable movement at the tip of a 3 foot
    keel - even 1/8 inch of movement over 2 inches width would
    translate into a couple of inches at the tip, if I have that
    right. So hopefully this was the issue!

    I took Drifter for a sail today after rebuilding the mast step
    and did not notice any flexing or movement in the floors or hull
    (made pencil marks on the floors and adjacent hull skin and
    checked on different tacks).  I also checked the tabbing under
    the settees on one side and found it intact, so suspect that the
    surveyor may have jumped to conclusions when he said the hull had
    been compromised and that was what was causing the keel movement.
    Â
    Â Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions.

    ChrisÂ
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