Well - you don't have a GFI on your 120 circuit, and no fuses on the
battery connections (as are required per ABYC). Not sure I'd go so far
as suggesting you be banished 'tho - seems a bit harsh. Plus people who
get banished turn into psycho nutjobs like Kahn, we don't need that kind
of crazy.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2020-06-22 6:19 p.m., Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
All,
Here is a diagram from 2015 when I started this project —
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a114viuob5m3kpl/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf?dl=0
There have been a few modifications since then, but nothing major. It
has worked out really, really well.
It should be noted that when I first distributed this to the list back
in 2015, I got a reply from David Risch that said, “You got it all
wrong. You idiot. Get off our C&C List, you amateur hack.” And yes, I
still have that email.
Lastly, on my boat, we don’t call it House Bank and Engine Bank, but
instead “Main Power” and “Auxiliary Power”. I don’t know — it just
seems to “fit” more.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
On Jun 22, 2020, at 4:07 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The only way I can picture you system of 2 house batteries and a start
with an ACR switch of start/1/ALL is that while you have 2 physical
house batteries, you only have 1 house bank. Can you confirm?
Convention is to have the start battery is more or less connected
directly and exclusively to the engine starter. The ACR is simply a
voltage sensor which closes the connection between the house bank and
the starting bank when voltage of one or the other goes above 13.6v.
The switch you have aligns the output of the switch to the start, or
house, or overrides the voltage sensing of the ACR and closes it in so
that the batteries are in parallel. I can't see how you switch was
installed and/or confirm that it follows conventions... I'm simply
explaining my understanding of how your components work. If I've
misunderstood please correct me.
Are you asking where physically the solar and portable system should
be installed? Or electrically? I'm going to assume electrically.
I would have all of my charge sources going to the same electrical bus
bar which would be connected to the house battery. Based on your
description you would have at least 3 charge sources and 1 load. This
is very good reason to have a single short battery cable leading to a
separate bus bar. Some installations start as a direct connection to
the battery terminal, load and source but ultimately morph into
multiple loads and multiple charge sources. I can't tell where you
are in this evolution.
To stay as close to the scope of your question as possible, I would
answer by saying that when adding a solar charging system you should
tie-in in a parallel nature to your other charging sources. Same with
your portable AC charger. No matter which charging source is
functioning (or any combination there of) the system will continue to
work as it does now. The ACR will continue to work, and the battery
monitor will still work.
Feel free to reply with questions and clarifications.
For what it is worth I have attached a picture of a "recommended"
system. In this circuit the top battery can be thought of as the
house battery and ALL charging sources should be attached to the
positive terminal of the top battery. Realize that this is a
simplified drawing which does not necessarily address the idea of
using a positive or negative bus bar where appropriate.
IMG_20170322_141502.jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E7-akwYont-pvjTEZ1T716KPUAgArTKm/view?usp=drivesdk>
I don't like this next representation as much and it is in
contradiction to the circuit above since it suggests that all charge
sources are on the starting battery. IMO this is incorrect...
However, you can still use the graphic to envision a "proper" system
by simply changing the connection of the charging sources (including
the alternator) to the house battery.
wiring_zps9f44ed48.jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EotnMP5xPhaZroFlsFaK6I4DUZ25u-uh/view?usp=drivesdk>
Clearly different opinions exists as to where the charging sources
"should" be attached but here is my explanation. Charging sources can
regularly exceed 50+ amps for a pretty long time depending on the
depth of discharge of the house battery. A starting battery is far
less likely to draw high current for any significant amount of time.
This is a lot of current to be forcing through an ACR. A disadvantage
to having the charging sources (alternator) applied to the house
battery is that you would most likely need to modify the original
engine wiring to include an additional cable that ties to the
alternator. A simple way to do this is by installing a small start
battery in or near the engine compartment with a new start cable
attached to the starter. The original engine battery cable becomes
the dedicated alternator cable. A switch such as yours is a great
option in this case and can be installed in the engine compartment
between the two cables. Instead of an ACR, an ecocharge device or
similar DC-DC device offers additional options of allowing the starter
battery to differ in chemistry from that of the house battery. I am a
huge fan of the value which classic flooded batteries provide however,
a lithium start battery could be very advantageous.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:12 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a a question or two for the battery experts:
My set-up is 2 house and 1 start with a Blue-Sea ACR switch which
has a start/1 or all switch. I also have a Victron(?) battery
monitor that lets me know whats up.
Mostly I am at the dock so I have access to AC power but prefer
not to leave it 'on' in my absence.
I would like to hook up a solar panel to trickle charge the system
in my absence and would like advice on physically how to do it. I
have a MPPT controller, etc. but need a simple/safe way to
connect/disconnect it and where should I connect: directly to one
of the battery banks?
Similarly I like the idea of an emergency battery/charger (the
portable kind that keeps its internal battery charged from AC but
is light enough to carry on board) that can be hooked up to get
going if all the above goes to hell,
Where is the best place to patch such a connection to the system
for an emergency start system--presumably this same place could be
used also hook in the solar panel?
Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
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Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
