Graham,

Everything is fused - just not in the diagram. So yes, the Enterprise is 
compliant. And I have a 2019 survey to prove it. 

And it’s “Khan” — though I did know a Jewish kid from Great Neck, Long Island 
named Kahn who was a bit of a nutjob. 

Doubt he was capable of any wrath though.....

All the best, 

Edd

———————————————-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———————————————-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———————————————-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 22, 2020, at 6:15 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Well - you don't have a GFI on your 120 circuit, and no fuses on the battery 
connections (as are required per ABYC).  Not sure I'd go so far as suggesting 
you be banished 'tho - seems a bit harsh.  Plus people who get banished turn 
into psycho nutjobs like Kahn, we don't need that kind of crazy.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2020-06-22 6:19 p.m., Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
> All,
> 
> Here is a diagram from 2015 when I started this project — 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/a114viuob5m3kpl/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf?dl=0  
> 
> There have been a few modifications since then, but nothing major. It has 
> worked out really, really well. 
> 
> It should be noted that when I first distributed this to the list back in 
> 2015, I got a reply from David Risch that said, “You got it all wrong. You 
> idiot. Get off our C&C List, you amateur hack.” And yes, I still have that 
> email. 
> 
> Lastly, on my boat, we don’t call it House Bank and Engine Bank, but instead 
> “Main Power” and “Auxiliary Power”. I don’t know — it just seems to “fit” 
> more. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jun 22, 2020, at 4:07 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> The only way I can picture you system of 2 house batteries and a start with 
> an ACR switch of start/1/ALL is that while you have 2 physical house 
> batteries, you only have 1 house bank.  Can you confirm?  Convention is to 
> have the start battery is more or less connected directly and exclusively to 
> the engine starter.  The ACR is simply a voltage sensor which closes the 
> connection between the house bank and the starting bank when voltage of one 
> or the other goes above 13.6v.  The switch you have aligns the output of the 
> switch to the start, or house, or overrides the voltage sensing of the ACR 
> and closes it in so that the batteries are in parallel.  I can't see how you 
> switch was installed and/or confirm that it follows conventions... I'm simply 
> explaining my understanding of how your components work.  If I've 
> misunderstood please correct me.
> 
> Are you asking where physically the solar and portable system should be 
> installed?  Or electrically?  I'm going to assume electrically.
> 
> I would have all of my charge sources going to the same electrical bus bar 
> which would be connected to the house battery.  Based on your description you 
> would have at least 3 charge sources and 1 load.  This is very good reason to 
> have a single short battery cable leading to a separate bus bar.  Some 
> installations start as a direct connection to the battery terminal, load and 
> source but ultimately morph into multiple loads and multiple charge sources.  
> I can't tell where you are in this evolution.
> 
> To stay as close to the scope of your question as possible, I would answer by 
> saying that when adding a solar charging system you should tie-in in a 
> parallel nature to your other charging sources.  Same with your portable AC 
> charger.  No matter which charging source is functioning (or any combination 
> there of) the system will continue to work as it does now.  The ACR will 
> continue to work, and the battery monitor will still work.
> 
> Feel free to reply with questions and clarifications.
> 
> For what it is worth I have attached a picture of a "recommended" system.  In 
> this circuit the top battery can be thought of as the house battery and ALL 
> charging sources should be attached to the positive terminal of the top 
> battery.  Realize that this is a simplified drawing which does not 
> necessarily address the idea of using a positive or negative bus bar where 
> appropriate.
>    IMG_20170322_141502.jpg
> 
> I don't like this next representation as much and it is in contradiction to 
> the circuit above since it suggests that all charge sources are on the 
> starting battery.  IMO this is incorrect... However, you can still use the 
> graphic to envision a "proper" system by simply changing the connection of 
> the charging sources (including the alternator) to the house battery.
>    wiring_zps9f44ed48.jpg
> 
> Clearly different opinions exists as to where the charging sources "should" 
> be attached but here is my explanation.  Charging sources can regularly 
> exceed 50+ amps for a pretty long time depending on the depth of discharge of 
> the house battery.  A starting battery is far less likely to draw high 
> current for any significant amount of time.  This is a lot of current to be 
> forcing through an ACR.  A disadvantage to having the charging sources 
> (alternator) applied to the house battery is that you would most likely need 
> to modify the original engine wiring to include an additional cable that ties 
> to the alternator.  A simple way to do this is by installing a small start 
> battery in or near the engine compartment with a new start cable attached to 
> the starter.  The original engine battery cable becomes the dedicated 
> alternator cable.  A switch such as yours is a great option in this case and 
> can be installed in the engine compartment between the two cables.  Instead 
> of an ACR, an ecocharge device or similar DC-DC device offers additional 
> options of allowing the starter battery to differ in chemistry from that of 
> the house battery.  I am a huge fan of the value which classic flooded 
> batteries provide however, a lithium start battery could be very advantageous.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:12 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> I have a a question or two for the battery experts:
>> 
>> My set-up is 2 house and 1 start with a Blue-Sea ACR switch which has a 
>> start/1 or all switch. I also have a Victron(?) battery monitor that lets me 
>> know whats up.
>> 
>> Mostly I am at the dock so I have access to AC power but prefer not to leave 
>> it 'on' in my absence.
>> 
>> I would like to hook up a solar panel to trickle charge the system in my 
>> absence and would like advice on physically how to do it. I have a MPPT 
>> controller, etc. but need a simple/safe way to connect/disconnect it and 
>> where should I connect: directly to one of the battery banks?
>> 
>> Similarly I like the idea of an emergency battery/charger (the portable kind 
>> that keeps its internal battery charged from AC but is light enough to carry 
>> on board) that can be hooked up to get going if all the above goes to hell,
>> 
>> Where is the best place to patch such a connection to the system for an 
>> emergency start system--presumably this same place could be used also hook 
>> in the solar panel? 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> _______________________________________________
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