When I did mine, the biggest labor issue was that the PO had installed a combination of screws and bolts/nuts to hold the old plexi lenses in place, the holes for which were sources of leaks. As a result, I also needed to repair gel coat (and fill holes) in the recessed areas where the lenses sit. I would not have considered holding the replacement lenses in place with screws, as this is what I was getting away from. Instead, I used the 3M double stick tape method described on the website. The YouTube video on how to install was very helpful.
As I recall, I used a paint stir stick to support the replacement lens along the bottom, which in my case was just the right width to center it in the window recess top to bottom. I centered the lenses side to side visually. I did the tape “hinge” across the top, flipped the replacement lens up, installed the 3M tape, and carefully flipped the lens back down into place. Worked like a charm. The rest of the job (installing the sealant) was a bit messy but manageable. I used masking tape around the window recesses to get a professional look. It’s important to use the right sealant (a Dow product as I recall, not SIKA) because it had a longer cure window than GE silicone. You don’t want it to “skin” while you’re working. I did mine on a cloudy day, about 75 degrees, to ensure the boat surface was not too warm. That was about six years ago, and I haven’t had a leak since. Matt C&C 42 Custom From: John Read via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, February 9, 2023 6:18 PM To: 'Stus-List' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: John Read <johnprea...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: Replacing cabin windows I did the windows myself on my 34 over 10 years ago. Biggest issue was the plexus the factory used to attach the original windows would not release causing damage to the gel coat underneath which required repair. Major PITA. But all is well that ends well. Windows still going strong no leaks. Used the SIKA 295 system. Key to stay within shelf life and follow directions exactly. Sensitive to temperature and humidity. I used small pieces of 1/8 inch tubing to ensure window was proud to the gel coat and screws at each corner to hold plexi in place while the SIKA cured. This ensured adequate thickness of the SIKA so it could flex as the boat moved. Just removed screws and filled holes with SIKA after it cured. Be sure to mask and tape everything anywhere near the windows as is impossible to remove if some gets to an unwanted surface. Best of luck John Read Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT
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