My 32 has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a
significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in
place without a frame, screws, bolts etc. Job done 10 years ago and the
windows today have no issues.
First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed
the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and
carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus. I cleaned the
Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a template to cut the 4
new windows.
Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of
the gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave
it as the adhesive will take care of it.
At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and
the Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the
Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2
tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube). The Sika
295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer.
The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in
the cabin sides and draw around from the inside so the paper can be cut
away where they fit into the cabin side. With sand paper, rough up the
new window where they will be mounted.
I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is
very dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy. I
applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as
I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on
the edge of each window itself.
I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each
window to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces
of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a
10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in
place.....left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing
time with the moderate Spring temperature.
If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address
the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape,
regardless of cost. While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective,
it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you
are not prepared.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2023-02-09 7:18 p.m., John Read via CnC-List wrote:
I did the windows myself on my 34 over 10 years ago. Biggest issue
was the plexus the factory used to attach the original windows would
not release causing damage to the gel coat underneath which required
repair. Major PITA. But all is well that ends well. Windows still
going strong no leaks. Used the SIKA 295 system. Key to stay within
shelf life and follow directions exactly. Sensitive to temperature
and humidity. I used small pieces of 1/8 inch tubing to ensure window
was proud to the gel coat and screws at each corner to hold plexi in
place while the SIKA cured. This ensured adequate thickness of the
SIKA so it could flex as the boat moved. Just removed screws and
filled holes with SIKA after it cured. Be sure to mask and tape
everything anywhere near the windows as is impossible to remove if
some gets to an unwanted surface.
Best of luck
John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
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me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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