Hi Ron:
Yes, I’ve been to your site (excellent site BTW) and cleaned out the gunked up grease. The thing was a mess when I got it, with grease everywhere including the nylon gears and in between the dial plates. You’re looking at the “after” photos. Everything is nice and smooth now, except for the skipping. My setup is a bit different from the one in your photos. The “water mark” you referred to seems to be glue that holds the nylon gear onto the dial. 73, Jim W2BVM From: Ron [mailto:wd8...@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 6:28 AM To: Drake List; radio6...@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem Jim, I've never had the issues to know, but have you looked here? http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/PTO/Drake_PTO.htm Discusses binding PTO gears from someone oiling the nylon gear. It kind of looks like you have that going in your photos (brown "water mark" on your nylon gear). 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Mon, 10/10/11, Jim DiMauro <radio6...@yahoo.com> wrote: From: Jim DiMauro <radio6...@yahoo.com> Subject: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem To: "Drake List" <drakelist@zerobeat.net> Date: Monday, October 10, 2011, 10:15 PM Hi All: Looking for some help on a problem with the PTO dial mechanism of a nice R-4C that I bought some years ago but never put into service. The dials do not rotate at a constant speed, although I spin the knob at a constant speed. At a certain point in the rotation the dials abruptly speed up, then return to the slower speed until the whole works comes back 360 degrees around. Of course the dial calibration is constantly changing. Thinking it was nothing more than a dried out rubber bushing I changed it out, but it made no difference whatsoever. While observing the gear train in action I noticed that there are two gears sandwiched together, one smaller brass gear with a shaft bushing in the center, and the other a larger steel gear that rotates around the brass bushing (see photos 006 and 007 here: http://www.dcaconsulting.org/R4C_PTO/). The steel gears didn’t seem to rotate smoothly around the bushing, so I removed the dials and the gears and I can feel them bind at a certain point while rotating around the bushing that holds them together. I’m guessing that’s where my problem lies. If so, then I probably need to find a replacement gear. I’ve never been into a Drake gear train before, so I don’t know if I’m on the right track or not. Also for those of you who are familiar with the gear train, please look at all ten photos and let me know if anything obvious jumps out at you. One thing I noticed is that the kc dial disc doesn’t have a hub, but instead was just sandwiched against the brass disc on the hundreds kc dial. This is different from what I have seen in material available on the web. Any suggestions and advice would be appreciated. 73, Jim W2BVM -----Inline Attachment Follows----- _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
_______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
