Hi Bryan:
It bears NO similarity, other than the fact that the solder's heating the
enamel and causing it to melt.
This method takes about 3-4 seconds to accomplish while the solder-blob
method usually takes 8-10 seconds and is not nrealy as easy to accomplish,
though I still feel the solder blob method is the next best way to tin leads.
too bad you can't find someone locally to try it out... the difference is
astounding.
Tom
At 07:29 PM 8/27/04, Brian Mury wrote:
Thanks Tom.
This sounds fairly similar to the "solder blob" method, which I did not
find as easy as claimed - but I suppose I won't know unless I buy one
and try it out!!! :-)
I think I'll probably bite the bullet and order one.
On Fri, 2004-08-27 at 08:39, Tom Hammond wrote:
> At 10:24 PM 8/26/04, Brian Mury wrote:
>
> Tom Hammond wrote:
> > > It's also great for tinning toroidal inductor leads... a nice side
benefit.
> >
> >Hi Tom, care to describe how you use it in that fashion? I found
> >stripping and tinning the toroid leads to be the only part of building
> >my K2 that I didn't enjoy (I used the solder blob method). I've got the
> >KSSB and KPA100 sitting here waiting to be built, and I'm tempted by the
> >sale on the Hakko 808 - help me justify it! :-)
>
> Why certainly. It's disgustingly easy...
>
> I don't recall who first posted it here (maybe Don Brown), but here goes:
>
> 1) Wind the toroidal inductor and space the turns out
> as required. Cut the leads to about 3/4" long (max.).
>
> 2) Take each of the toroidal inductor leads and bend
> them STRAIGHT OUT from the body of the core.. like
> wings. This will allow you to tin the lead almost
> right up to the body of the core, which ensures that
> when you install the inductor, you don't pull any
> of the enameled lead down into the plated-thru hole,
> possibly creating a poorly soldered connection.
>
> 3) With the Hakko 808 desoldering tool hot and ready to
> play, melt some solder into the nozzle and then slowly
> (1-2 seconds) insert the inductor lead all the way up
> to the turns on the inductor.
>
> In about 1-2 seconds (max.) the enamel will begin to
> bubble up and smoke.
>
> 4) HOLD the trigger (sucking the solder out of the nozzle)
> and slowly remove the inductor lead. This should leave
> you with a perfectly tinned inductor lead.
>
> If there's any burnt enamel remaining on the wire, and this is NOT
unusual,
> it can usually be broken off the wire with a thumbnail as the wire is
> pulled between the thumb and forefinger.
>
> When the leads are again folded back against the body of the core, the
> tinned portion of each wire should extend to (or just slightly past) the
> outer edge of the core itself.
>
> Like said, nuthin' to it! IF you have a Hakko 808.... <G>
>
> 73,
>
> Tom N0SS
--
73, Brian
VE7NGR
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