Guy,

Thanks for the tips. My coax jumpers are some I bought from a company I don't 
remember exactly which one. It was one that I saw recommended somewhere. 
Unfortunately the PL259s are crimped on but they seem to work okay. Just to be 
sure, when I was troubleshooting the problem I replaced the jumper with no 
change. I can't remember if I traded with the K2. I might have. I need to 
change the coax anyway because I need them to be a little longer. If I can find 
someone who sells good quality with soldered PL259s I'll probably order them, 
otherwise I'll just make my on.

I lowered the dipole, looked it over but didn't see anything except the ends a 
rusting a little where they are tied to the insulators. Unfortunately it 
doesn't hang free and clear. I have lots of trees. I tried to reroute it where 
it would be more in the clear. Then I put it back up and it performs the same. 
I guess the next step is to replace it with the other dipole that tested okay. 
When I did the test I just hung the dipole between 2 trees. I did not hang it 
where the problem dipole is so it was not a 100% valid test. I'll try switching 
the 2 and see what happens. At least the test confirmed the switch and balun 
are okay. 


Thanks for the suggestion about recording the swr across the antenna bandwidth 
when it is new. I can plot a little graph and save it for future use. Even for 
my beam which is not new it will be a good thing to have.


Joe
k4nvj



________________________________
From: Guy Olinger K2AV <olin...@bellsouth.net>
To: Joe Ford <k4...@yahoo.com>
Cc: Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>; "w3...@embarqmail.com" 
<w3...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: K3 Strange Problem

On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 9:24 PM, Joe Ford <k4...@yahoo.com> wrote:

... I'll take down the ant and inspect it.But it works fine on all the other
> bands. Tunes with no problems all other bands. The KAT100 tunes but the KAT3
> doesn't?

Tuning all bands using a single antenna is always dicey
somewhere.Success is NOT guaranteed, but fortunate.  You are often
operating at the fringe of a tuner's range on one band or another.
The KAT 100 and KAT3 are not the same tuners, have different coils,
different tradeoffs, and different firmware to drive it.  Though the
ranges are approximately the same, give the two units an impedance at
the far fringe, and one or the other may not be able tune it properly.

Change any of the coax lengths after the tuner, INCLUDING THOSE INSIDE
THE K3, by switching, exchange, or whatever, and what just barely got
tuned the last time by the same tuner may not now tune.

Though this may not be your problem at all, a friend of mine was
having troubles of this mysterious sort. Eventually he discovered that
he had not soldered either the braid OR the center conductor on a
PL259.  It worked for YEARS before it finally started getting
intermittent.

Another ham had a balun that was gradually going bad and overheating,
apparently shorting some turns and causing mysterious changes in SWR.
He discovered that because during a QRO contest it caught fire and
completely shorted out.  Actually his wife discovered it looking out
the window at the tower out in the field, and came and told him his
tower was on fire.

The way to validate and check out one of these compromise antennas, is
to run it when it is brand new and working spiffy.  SWEEP the MFJ
CONTINUOUSLY from the bottom of the lowest band to the top of the
highest band.  Note the actual resonances you find along the way.
Write down those frequencies, the R at those resonant frequencies, and
the 2:1 SWR points above and below all of those resonances. Entirely
possible that all of the resonances are outside the ham bands.  Keep
these figures as a reference.  When you have trouble, repeat the
measurements.  IF there is trouble in the antenna, those readings will
change.  If the coax gets waterlogged, the 2:1 SWR points will broaden
out significantly and the R values at resonance will likely change.
If something gets broken the resonances will all move on you.

If you have an AIM 4170 as your analyzer, just sweep it from 0.5 to 30
MHz and save the file.  You can then import it and have an onscreen
compare between the old and new readings.

73, Guy.
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