If Jim's ideas don't work you could simply try another detector of a
different brand. Susceptibility to RF varies in unpredictable ways and
that is an easier solution than moving the detector (move it where?
Would it actually help?).
Another approach, if it is a 'wired-in' detector, is to replace it with
a battery-only detector or, easier yet, just unplug the AC wiring
connector and let it run on battery only as a test to see if that cures
the susceptibility problem. If it does cure the problem you would
probably need to replace the detector with a battery-only model which
would probably run for a lot longer between battery changes because the
wired-in type, when operating on battery only, can use up the battery
pretty fast. If your detector is interconnected with other detectors so
that they all sound the alarm if any one of them senses smoke then going
battery only will defeat that feature and only you can decide if that is
a prudent thing to do and in accordance with codes ( In my house all of
my detectors are easily heard from all rooms).
Don K7FJ
On 2/1/2013 9:40 AM, Jim Wiley wrote:
If it is a wired-in smoke detector, try putting a .01 uFd 1400-volt
"AC rated" cap directly across 120-volt AC power leads. If that isn't
enough, then try a capacitor the between (across) the wire, if there
is one, that connects it to the other detectors and the AC neutral
lead. If the unit is battery powered, try a .01 uFd 600 V cap across
the detection chamber. That may work, but if not, get used to the
idea of having to move it. Always test and verify proper operation
of the unit by blowing actual smoke from burning wood matches into
the unit after making any modifications of this nature. Pressing the
"test" button is not enough - use actual smoke.
- Jim, KL7CC
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