Hello Jon,

Just add a bit to your comments.

In the building of quite a number of K2 in the past, I feel winding the toriod 
is in fact quite fun.  Why not try it first, if not ok, then go to toriod guy.  
No harm to have a try.  Elecraft gives you enough spare enamel wire to play 
with.

XG2 is very useful and it is a must tool for casual alignment.

W2 is NOT quite a kit and no soldering is required.  Compared with K3, one of 
the beauty of K2 is that the rig is actually serviceable by ourselves in the 
component level.

K2 has already covered all the ability of K1.  Just do it step-by-step, the 
construction is manageable.  I am not  a radio man by profession and can still 
build over 10 K2(s) in the past.  My first K2 is #1146 and latest one is #65XX.

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC



----- 郵件原件 ----
寄件人﹕ Jon Perelstein <jpere...@yahoo.com>
收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2009/12/31 (四) 9:20:57 PM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

I built both the K1 and the K2.  I had kit building experience 45 years ago 
when I built my first novice rig but hadn't really picked up a soldering iron 
in the intervening years.

It's true that each kit is one component at a time.  However, my sense is that 
there are critical places on the K2 where the physical tolerances are much 
tighter (e.g., trying to get a soldering iron tip into a very very tight place 
without damaging components that you've already installed) or where you're 
trying to perform magic (e.g., soldering a jumper wire between the stubs of two 
components because no holes have been provided on the circuit board).  Also, if 
you're a sloppy solderer or one who puts too much solder, there are more places 
on the K2 than on the K1 where you will cause yourself significant harm.  
Figuring out which component is which gets ugly in some of the sub-modules of 
the K2.  And then there are the toroids that have to be wound ...

Despite my experience from 45 years ago, I doubt that I would have been 
successful with the K2 if I had not first done the K1.  Even then, it took a 
lot of handholding from people like Don Wilhelm (who, by the way, is the single 
greatest handholder in the world, bar none!!!!) plus a couple of places where I 
had to remove parts I had ruined and then install replacement parts.  

Someone else suggested that you first try some of the other kits and I think 
that's a great idea.  There are a number of the mini-module kits and many of 
them are things that you will find useful to have with either a K1 or a K2 -- 
such as the W1 wattmeter/SWR bridge, the 2T-gen 2-Tone Test Oscillator, N-gen 
Wideband Noise generator,  and XG2 Three Band Receiver Test Oscillator/S-Meter 
Calibrator.  If you expect to take the K2 to 100 watts, you might want to build 
the W2 instead of the W1.

Whatever you do, I recommend that you buy the toroids from The Toroid Guy 
(toroid...@earthlink.net) and not try to wind them yourself.  Winding the 
toroids on the K1 almost killed me, and I doubt that I could have successfully 
done the K2 toroids.

The other thing I recommend is to ask around your circle of friends, ham radio 
clubs, Elmers, etc. and see if you can find someone who has done some 
significant soldering over the past few years and see if you can get that 
person to either give you a soldering lesson or two (it really is amazing how 
little solder you need per joint) and/or review some of your early work.  

Jon, KB1QBZ

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