> The first couple of cuts I was using a chord length of about 100mm,
> meaning that my g-code statements around the leading edge where about
> 0.1mm apart or less, which caused the feedrate to slow down for some
> reason, which caused too much heat to build up in the leading edge.

If you use G64 P0.1 the trajectory planner *should* automatically blend 
out the unnecessary segments and give you full speed over the entire shape.

> I am using 20ga nichrome-80 wire (about 2.5 Ohms/ft) and found so far
> that using about 2.2 amps of current and a feedrate of about 150mm/min
> gave pretty good results.

Thanks for the data. Stuff like this can save others lots of time.

> I am using standard hardware store threaded rod, with the standard
> coupler nuts.  Any idea what the best way to lubricate them is?  I
> bought some lithium grease, but have not applied it yet.

You might try running a die over the threads to knock off the high spots. 
Also, you can make pretty serviceable plastic nuts with a tap and some 
cutting boards. You can even make anti-backlash nuts with this method. 
Brass works well too. High-moly EP "extreme pressure" grease (lithium 
grease with molybdenum sulfide added) is the best for metal-metal contact. 
Lithium should work well for plastic/metal but I think no grease would be 
the best, since its kinda messy. Most binding problems are caused by 
misalignment anyway.

> Next thing to do is to charactarize the kerf width and try some tapered
> sections.

I've heard that the kerf can be higher on the top side of a tapered cut 
since heat rises. This might confuse your measurements.

HTH
   -fenn

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