What about using EDM fluid as a lubricant for Al cutting.
Almost no smell
Has additives to be gentler on the skin
Higher flash point


Roland


2009/9/7 Erik Christiansen <dva...@internode.on.net>

> On Sun, Sep 06, 2009 at 02:54:43PM -0400, Douglas Pollard wrote:
> > >
> > What is neat oil. I've never heard that term before?
>
> Just an expression, like "I take my whiskey neat", i.e. unadulterated.
> There is, however, something called "Neatsfoot oil"
> (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil), but I wasn't thinking of
> that, just unemulsified 100% cutting oil.
>
> Since the pong of kero is more than I can endure, as well as being
> unhealthy due to up to 18% aromatics (see wikipedia's kerosene entry),
> I'll try the WD-40 when cutting any soft aluminium. There's also
> methylated spirits. Since it evaporates, there's neither mess nor
> rusting, I figure.
>
> The TCT sawblades being sold for use on aluminium are supposed to be
> used with beeswax, which they sell in stick form. I suppose that my
> speeds are pretty slow if I could't melt that.
>
> The diecast Al that I've just finished with cut fine dry, with only an
> occasional build-up on the tool edge, that came off under gentle
> fingernail pressure. The finish wasn't first grade, though.
>
> I'll have to put the tool to some age-hardening aluminium alloy castings
> I made about 30 years ago, mixing about 3% Cu and 3% Zn with the Al,
> IIRC. It hardened enough to be tough going for a small round-column
> mill-drill, but cut like butter after 2 hours in the kitchen oven at top
> temperature. (It's supposed to be possible to lift the tensile strength
> from 10 to 25 tons/sq. in. [1], but even if it only makes the casting
> easier to machine, I figure it's worth doing.)
>
> [1] Again, relying on memory from 30 years ago.
>    (Oh - Oh, there goes another evening, googling for more current
>    info.)
>
> Erik
>
>
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