2012/1/27 gene heskett <ghesk...@wdtv.com>:
>
> That depends.  Can, if you just short your device, burn wood?  If not, or
> only very much slower than you expected, then the wire is too small.

I could. Now it seems that my diy stopped working again - laser
receives ~3V DC regardless of the state of gpio output pin.

I give up trying to get it working.

> However, this gives me another better idea, that of putting your DIY
> switching device right at the laser, essentially doing away with the wiring
> losses, and use the existing small wire going to it for the logic signal to
> control it.
>
> That seems like the most serviceable solution to me, quit trying to send
> the amps up and down a small wire, just send the controlling signal. I am
> assuming that the relatively small currents your DIY needs can be supplied
> by the lasers own supply, removing the need to also send your DIY a pair of
> power leads of its own.

Thanks, sounds like a pretty good idea. Its only downside - I cannot
implement it on the spot at client's site, because I have to redo my
diy - it is on the same piece of pcb with 7 input optoisolators for
home, limits and e-stop.

2012/1/27 gene heskett <ghesk...@wdtv.com>:
> On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:50:53 PM Kirk Wallace did opine:
>
>> I suspect the power to the laser driver just needs to be switched as an
>> Enable, with the driver's TTL input modulated by PWM/PDM to turn the
>> bean on and control the strength.
>>
>> I have zero experience with lasers, so grains of salt are recommended.
>
> And I suspect you are spot on, and that we have managed to make a larger
> problem out of it than it is.
>

As I wrote - there are only 2 connection terminals for laser board,
labeled "+" and "-"

Viesturs

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