On 06/05/2012 10:56 AM, gene heskett wrote: >> The dip tube is a 1 3/4" diameter clear tube, with a removable valve >> threaded into a stopper. That plugs into the bottom of the tube. I'd >> plugged the stopper into the tube, climbed up on the step ladder and >> began to pour the varnish into the tube. The tube got about 3/4's full >> or so, and the weight of the varnish column pushed the stopper out. Big >> popping sound, and varnish gushing onto the floor. Guess I hadn't >> pushed the stopper in all the way. ;-) >> > > I think that's called Hindsight. Its always perfect. :) My problem was in > thinking it blew out of the top of the tube, and I of course was looking > for the cause. :( > Indeed. ;-) 20-20 or better. > Have you considered using a similar construction but in heavier walled PVC, > with the bottom cap glued on with its drain valve, but fitted with an > adapter on top that the usual square knobbed plug screws into, with a wire > attached to the inside to hold and retrieve the rod with, and a hose barb > screwed into the plug so you can attach a cheap refrigeration pump and pull > a decent vacuum on it for 15 minutes before letting the air (or better yet, > an air displacer gas to preserve the varnish) back in, and letting it sit > for another hour to suck the varnish into the pores before you lift the rod > out? > The drain cap needs to be removable to be able to clean the inside of the tube and the valve after use. It's a very simple operation actually. The rod is set into the tube, and the drain cock is opened so that the varnish drains at the rate of about 3" - 4" per minute. Leaves a nice, even coat of thin varnish on the rod. > No clue what it would do for the action& feel, but it should result in a > more durable rod, quite waterproof should it get dunked as the tip section > is prone to be when the net is brought to hand. > That's the real point behind varnishing a rod - to protect the outer surface from outside agencies - dirt, moisture, UV, and other nasty things that can harm the cane underneath the varnish. Plus, a well done finish makes the rod. > Actually, with that small a surface exposed to the air, the varnish will > probably store right in that tube better than if drained back into the can, > just refill when it no longer covers the rod hanging from the wire. > Arrange your lifting rig so the wet varnish doesn't get on the threads as > the rod is lifted out, put a shot of that carbon dioxide or whatever it is > that displaces the oxygen in the ullage above the varnish (Highland Hdwe in > Hotlanta has it in their catalog) and it should last for years. And should > you need to make another, stuff to do it is at Lowes, cheap. > The varnish drains right back into the can, so storage is easy. A shot of Bloxygen at the end of the finishing session keeps the varnish from curing in the can. > >> >> No need now. Varnished concrete is easy to clean. ;-) >> > And slicker than snot on a doorknob when wet... :) > If it's getting wet, I shouldn't be in the shop. ;-) > > Cheers, Gene > Mark
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