The Cheap Harbor freight blue flame helmets work fine.  I have two of 
them, or maybe three.. not sure.

Others agree.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/archive/index.php/t-37042.html

I know some professional welder friends that use them on a regular basis..

I'd be surprised if the Jackson did not work some what better ... but I 
can buy another welder for the difference in cost.

One of the downsides of the Harbor Freight helmets is that they can be 
too sensitive and flash to dark in bright sunlight.   But I can work 
around that.

I have a TIG, MIG and some sticks welders and I have no issues with any 
of them with the blue flame helmets.

Dave



On 12/6/2013 8:54 PM, MC Cason wrote:
> Gene,
>
>     Sounds like you need a better helmet.
>
>     I've used many different types of helmets over the years, and I
> finally settled on a Jackson helmet, with a NexGen module (~$400.00).  I
> use the same helmet for MIG, TIG, and Stick.  It's adjustable from
> shades 9 to 13, and when the batteries die, it defaults to dark.
>
>     At shade 9, I can easily see the weld puddle, and surrounding metal.
> The flip time is fast, and will work down to 5 amps, which makes TIG'ing
> really easy.  Whatever you do, DO NOT get a cheapie auto darkening
> helmet.  The flip times can be too slow, and they can burn your eyes.
>
>     I just ordered a aluminum kit for my for one of my portable welders,
> (Lincoln HD3200), so it's going to get a pretty good workout this weekend.
>
>
> On 12/06/2013 02:22 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>> Sounds like someone who has walked that walk,
>>
>> RANT MODE ON
>>
>> and a subject that brings up a sore point with me in that 55 years ago I
>> could actually find an ND9 panel for my arc shield/helmet, making it usable
>> but even then I preferred the smith wrench because of ones ability to
>> modify the carbon content of the weld and see both the surroundings and the
>> weld puddle thru a set of ND5's.
>>
>> Today its ND10's only, which are so damned dense you can't see where to
>> strike the arc even with bright sunlight on the workpieces. And getting
>> these high priced automatics set to work well is a dream I haven't managed
>> to do well yet.  Mostly all you can see is the arc itself but dammit all to
>> hell, one needs to be able to see the work surface for at least a cm around
>> the arc in order to really be able to drive the j-stroke cleanly down the
>> joint AND get good penetration.  I can manage to run my mig when I have to,
>> but if I could actually see what the hell I was doing, I could do a hell of
>> a lot better than I can do when blinded by excess ND.
>>
>> /RANT MODE.
>>
>> Cheers, Gene
>

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