Would a better solution ( or an as_well_as solution) be to have two saddles 
spaced widely apart?
Or maybe we should all just save up and buy a Tormach. Slant-bed doesn't solve 
the basic problem, but its a good way to go.

Marcus

On 29 Sep 2014, at 03:35, Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Sunday 28 September 2014 21:54:25 andy pugh did opine
> And Gene did reply:
>> My lathe is rubbish. That's just a fact. Luckily the lathe is a rather
>> clever mechanism and even a bad one can make decent parts due to
>> fundamental precepts of geometry.
>> 
>> What I noticed today was that the saddle can twist. I think I have the
>> rear gibb a bit tight for anywhere more than 5" from the chuck. The
>> fact that there is a gibb is my own upgrade, the OE arrangement was
>> some cast iron plates with screws that were not quite tight onto a
>> painted surface (did I mention that my lathe is rubbish?)
>> 
>> So, I started thinking, and it occurred to me that whilst the
>> traditional lathe solution to the fact that the leadscrew is offset
>> from the point of action of the tool is to have a saddle with long
>> wings, you could have a short saddle that only controls in X with dual
>> ballscrews to keep X perpendicular to Z.
>> 
>> I _think_ that this makes some things easier, as you can have a short
>> saddle which makes missing the head easier, and leaves more room for
>> the screw covers. And, you can adjust the X-Y squareness, which is
>> normally impossible.
>> 
>> Apart from the extra cost, what is the drawback?
> 
> The requirement for a totally backlashless coupling between the screws?
> 
> I too have a similar problem with my toy 7x12.  And because the gibs are a 
> cast iron bitch to adjust, I've considered pulling the no longer used 
> rack, and adding an at least as long as the H wings bar front and back and 
> putting small ball bearings on some sort of adjusters to ride the bottom 
> of the front lip and back lip, which should reduce the friction from 
> trying to keep the gibs tight enough. Its slightly compounded on this 
> early 7x12 as the angle faces on the front of the way, and the angle cut 
> in the saddle didn't match by several degrees. With a front gib pulled up 
> tight, and the rear one off, the back of the H is lifted, originally about 
> 3/16", now maybe 5 thou.
> 
> I milled that out to a better fit and its wearing in nicely over the last 
> 5 years, nearly stabilized.  But with a QC toolpost, the offset from the 
> hold down bolt causes the tool to overhang the front of the H and heavy 
> cuts lift the right of it a thou or 2.
> 
> OTOH that does seem like an awful lot of work as I'd still have a sows ear 
> lathe.
> 
> Bolton has an 11x28 (23 between centers) with a variable speed motor that 
> sells bare for about $3000 USD.  The B290VF. Marked down some now. $2721 
> w/6" 4 jaw & backplate. What can this group say about it?  Good or bad?
> 
> Is it worth putting ball screws in it?
> 
>> This isn't the same as a central leadscrew, by the way, that's nice,
>> but in that scenario too, the scew can't keep the saddle square.
> 
> 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> -- 
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
> US V Castleman, SCOTUS, Mar 2014 is grounds for Impeaching SCOTUS
> 
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