I would just think of the bed as a casting, discard the rubbish
sitting on it, add a couple of rails and slides now you have something
than can carry a saddle without tightening and play.

Dave Caroline

On 29/09/2014, Marcus Bowman <marcus.bow...@visible.eclipse.co.uk> wrote:
> Would a better solution ( or an as_well_as solution) be to have two saddles
> spaced widely apart?
> Or maybe we should all just save up and buy a Tormach. Slant-bed doesn't
> solve the basic problem, but its a good way to go.
>
> Marcus
>
> On 29 Sep 2014, at 03:35, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>> On Sunday 28 September 2014 21:54:25 andy pugh did opine
>> And Gene did reply:
>>> My lathe is rubbish. That's just a fact. Luckily the lathe is a rather
>>> clever mechanism and even a bad one can make decent parts due to
>>> fundamental precepts of geometry.
>>>
>>> What I noticed today was that the saddle can twist. I think I have the
>>> rear gibb a bit tight for anywhere more than 5" from the chuck. The
>>> fact that there is a gibb is my own upgrade, the OE arrangement was
>>> some cast iron plates with screws that were not quite tight onto a
>>> painted surface (did I mention that my lathe is rubbish?)
>>>
>>> So, I started thinking, and it occurred to me that whilst the
>>> traditional lathe solution to the fact that the leadscrew is offset
>>> from the point of action of the tool is to have a saddle with long
>>> wings, you could have a short saddle that only controls in X with dual
>>> ballscrews to keep X perpendicular to Z.
>>>
>>> I _think_ that this makes some things easier, as you can have a short
>>> saddle which makes missing the head easier, and leaves more room for
>>> the screw covers. And, you can adjust the X-Y squareness, which is
>>> normally impossible.
>>>
>>> Apart from the extra cost, what is the drawback?
>>
>> The requirement for a totally backlashless coupling between the screws?
>>
>> I too have a similar problem with my toy 7x12.  And because the gibs are a
>>
>> cast iron bitch to adjust, I've considered pulling the no longer used
>> rack, and adding an at least as long as the H wings bar front and back and
>>
>> putting small ball bearings on some sort of adjusters to ride the bottom
>> of the front lip and back lip, which should reduce the friction from
>> trying to keep the gibs tight enough. Its slightly compounded on this
>> early 7x12 as the angle faces on the front of the way, and the angle cut
>> in the saddle didn't match by several degrees. With a front gib pulled up
>>
>> tight, and the rear one off, the back of the H is lifted, originally about
>>
>> 3/16", now maybe 5 thou.
>>
>> I milled that out to a better fit and its wearing in nicely over the last
>>
>> 5 years, nearly stabilized.  But with a QC toolpost, the offset from the
>> hold down bolt causes the tool to overhang the front of the H and heavy
>> cuts lift the right of it a thou or 2.
>>
>> OTOH that does seem like an awful lot of work as I'd still have a sows ear
>>
>> lathe.
>>
>> Bolton has an 11x28 (23 between centers) with a variable speed motor that
>>
>> sells bare for about $3000 USD.  The B290VF. Marked down some now. $2721
>> w/6" 4 jaw & backplate. What can this group say about it?  Good or bad?
>>
>> Is it worth putting ball screws in it?
>>
>>> This isn't the same as a central leadscrew, by the way, that's nice,
>>> but in that scenario too, the scew can't keep the saddle square.
>>
>>
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>> --
>> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
>> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
>> Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
>> US V Castleman, SCOTUS, Mar 2014 is grounds for Impeaching SCOTUS
>>
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