On Sun, Sep 28, 2014 at 9:54 PM, andy pugh <[email protected]> wrote:

> My lathe is rubbish. That's just a fact. Luckily the lathe is a rather
> clever mechanism and even a bad one can make decent parts due to
> fundamental precepts of geometry.
>
> What I noticed today was that the saddle can twist. I think I have the
> rear gibb a bit tight for anywhere more than 5" from the chuck. The
> fact that there is a gibb is my own upgrade, the OE arrangement was
> some cast iron plates with screws that were not quite tight onto a
> painted surface (did I mention that my lathe is rubbish?)
>
> So, I started thinking, and it occurred to me that whilst the
> traditional lathe solution to the fact that the leadscrew is offset
> from the point of action of the tool is to have a saddle with long
> wings, you could have a short saddle that only controls in X with dual
> ballscrews to keep X perpendicular to Z.
>
> I _think_ that this makes some things easier, as you can have a short
> saddle which makes missing the head easier, and leaves more room for
> the screw covers. And, you can adjust the X-Y squareness, which is
> normally impossible.
>
> Apart from the extra cost, what is the drawback?
>
> This isn't the same as a central leadscrew, by the way, that's nice,
> but in that scenario too, the scew can't keep the saddle square.
>
>
>
> --
> atp
>


Andy,

Are you thinking of starting from scratch with bits and pieces - say the
headstock and drive motors?  If so, why not pour an epoxy-granite base,
mount your headstock to that, and use linear rails instead of depending on
a cast iron bed that can twist and wear.

You can still use two lead screws, or two rack and pinion's (or would that
be racks and pinions, or ... ;-)) to drive the carriage.  The linear rails
mounted to the epoxy-granite bed would certainly be a heck of lot stiffer,
and would be great at dampening things that would cause chatter and such.

Mark
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