On Tuesday 08 September 2015 04:24:01 Erik Christiansen wrote:

> > I once bought a nearly 40 lb block of aluminum, about 6.5x6.5" cross
> > section about 20" long that way.  Been nibbling on that for smaller
> > bit & pieces for a while, but it would take quite a large bag to
> > hold the swarf if I sacrificed whats left of that, and its dead soft
> > gummy stuff, wanting to pack up the flutes of your tools way to
> > easily.  And I'm not yet rigged for coolant on this mill.  The table
> > has a drain, but its way to small at 1/4" bore and would be plugged
> > with swarf in less than 2 minutes.  But I can see a small pool pump
> > and a 5 gallon bucket of water if I could figure out how to rust
> > proof it.  I assume there is such a product.
>
> As has been mentioned here before, Gene, keeping chewing-gum grade Al
> cool is the trick, and metho does that very well, without mess.

Metho?  Thats a slang I've not encountered.

> For 
> small jobs, I've repurposed a small long-nosed plastic oil bottle,
> which can be persuaded to squirt, so its nose isn't so often nibbled
> by the cutter. It's a pity that they sell pure gummy Al, when just a
> few % Cu makes it nicely machinable, and stronger. (OK, enough Cu and
> it'll age-harden, which isn't a good idea for rolling or extrusion.)

Some of the 1/2" plate I made that jackshaft frame out of must have quite 
a bit in it, it machines great, but sounds as if I am grinding glass.  
The two end bulkheads carrying the shaft bearings are made from it, and 
its origin says it was rolled out in the later 60's as its part of the 
bracing skirt around the edges of a much larger sheet of it that was one 
part of an Ampex VR1200 2" quad vcr.  Riddled with tapped holes to mount 
stuff, and the 6" holes for the NAB hub clearance, out in the weather 
for many years now, it carries a pretty deep greyish age patina.  I was 
reminded of that Sunday while taking about 3mm's off the top of it to 
make sure it could rise enough in that pocket in the back of the lathes 
bed to compensate for the exchange of a 10 cog kit pulley for a 16 cog 
pulley in order to get some spindle speed back.

That part is being a cast iron bitch.  I had installed a small boss of 
this 1/2" adjacent to this pulley, intended to carry a 4mm screw that 
could be tweaked in and out so as to touch the bed casting, and thereby 
prevent this frame end from rising under cutting load tension far enough 
to allow the belt to slip by jumping cogs.  But the required rise to 
compensate for a belt about 3 or 4 cogs too short exceeds that which 
allows a decent tension.  That too high a tension made the end bearing 
walk down the staft and out of its pocket in the frame!

So now, taking advantage of the fact that when I built it, I had ordered 
a spare pair of bearings, I lost my cool and there is now a solidly 
retained bearing installed in both faces of both end brackets. And 
waiting on me to find some of that fawncy loctite.

So today that added boss gets relocated to a new set of holes about 6mm 
down from the existing ones as that bolt is restricting the rise needed 
and its now screwed completely in.  Plus I need to find a hex head 4mm 
bolt so the thing is adjustable by wrench without taking it all back out 
of the lathe to access it with a 3mm allen wrench.  Which it seems I 
miss-laid (or murphy stole it) late yesterday.

IOW, I haven't got the darned thing together yet.

> Yesterday, though, I just cranked up the spindle RPM so the chips were
> flung off, and forgot about coolant on two pieces of extrusion, it
> went so well.

My facing went well, 1/4" bit, 3mm stepover, 1100 revs and about 450 
mm/minute feed.  And a bit of wd-40 when the bit looked as if it was 
starting to pack.

And the jig to hold the motor worked well enough once I found a decently 
sharp pilot bit.  That big chuck is a bitch, as it will not hold a drill 
under 3mm shank, so a 1/16" bit wasn't usable. So I need to obtain 
another R8/smaller jacobs shank (or a 3/8" threaded one) & mount a 
smaller drill chuck.  Thats stuff for my bucket list...

> Piping kero about the workshop sounds distinctly scary to me.

Me too. I don't smoke anymore, quite about 27 years ago, and in the usage 
for EDM, I haven't ever had a fire even when using a big enough power 
supply that it could be heard a coule blocks away when running.  So 
while is can be ignited, the fireworks so far have been deep enough no 
air could get there to make it burn.

> > So treated for rust prevention water would be better.
>
> "Suds" (water & soluble oil) may in time make the mill table look
> duller/greyish, but is fine so long as it doesn't sit in the sump for
> so long that it begins to stink.

A distinct possibility. :(

> What about drilling out the table drain to a more workable size, and
> hammering in a bit of brass pipe to fit a bigger drain hose
> underneath?

I have some 3/8" clear plastic hose that will fit it.  But I've not yet 
rigged up the pump and tankage.  The reason I even mentioned the K2 was 
that it would do a far better job of isolating the alu from the airborn 
o2 which is the cause of a large part of the heating when machining alu.
The heat from the cutting is largely carried away by the chip, but the 
heat created by the instant burning of the alu as the tools cutting 
flute passes and a new film of oxide forms behind the edge is the major 
part of the alu getting hot when machined. With a mist of safflower oil 
coating it instantly, that heat almost vanishes.  But that also fills 
the building with a visible fog, and screws up your attempts to keep 
your glasses clean for days.  So while it works very well indeed, it has 
a nuisance price you have to pay unless you can figure a way to suck up 
the overspray & vent it outside.  Probably not good on lungs either...

Water soluble oil? Heavy on emulsifiers I expect.

What do I ask for?

> Erik
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

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